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The Gift

This route is located in the Lower Gorge Region at Long Wall

 Next Day Air

20.
+0
0 votes

Mailbox 5.8 (Trad) **

First Ascent: John Bronaugh, Louis Petry in 1984
Length: 70ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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This route ascends the left-facing dihedral 50 feet right of The Gift. Begin by face climbing the slab then move into the crack.
Rappel from anchors on The Gift.
Moves: Fingers
Descent: Rap anchors
Stays Dry:
Owner: NFS
Steepness:
fun (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

2.65 stars (43 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.8+ (36 votes)

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Submitted by: corduroy
Date: Jul 15th, 2007

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 18th, 2005

Submitted by: Jeff
Date: Dec 18th, 2005

Comments

21 comments {add your own comments}
1
tonybubb said on June 17th, 2003
Pumpy layback up top for 5.8 climbers.
2
Timeone said on July 10th, 2005
The bottom is nice, crux is at the top good protection
3
TIT said on July 15th, 2007
thanks for posting my pic Roy. not only are you my rope gun, but my personal photographer too.
4
JRTrash said on September 3rd, 2008
Hard for the grade.
5
NateS GR said on October 26th, 2009
This route has a good variety of moves. The top fingers part is pretty tough. I ran it out 25 feet to the anchors and almost fell at the top. Scary lead if you don't place gear up high.
6
dustonian said on January 1st, 2012
Raymond, change this route to 3 or 4 stars immediately!
7
pigsteak said on January 1st, 2012
consensus says 2.46 which isnt even halfway to three;)
8
dustonian said on January 1st, 2012
Consensus is somewhat meaningless on this site because most sheeple just vote for whatever the pre-set-Ray's-opinion-star-&-grade-settings say. Since you're a trad hiker now--get on this thing & you'll see, pig, you'll see... about as good as Autumn or Rock Wars I dare say.
9
SCIN said on January 1st, 2012
Dustin, not true. I find discrepancies quite often between what I set the stars to and what people vote on. I then adjust my stars for the print guide and usually update them here when i do a new edition unless I think otherwise or a developer has paid me off.
10
pigsteak said on January 1st, 2012
now honestly, how in the world would you know what people are thinking when they click the star button? and trust me, I am no where near unbolted clinbs...ever.
11
SCIN said on January 1st, 2012
In psychology what Dustin is doing is called projection. He feels the urge to sheeple so he thinks everyone else does too. It goes back to his days where he would practice the moves from Footloose in the mirror and feel bad about it the next day then make fun of his friends for practicing the moves from Footloose in the mirror when they actually had no idea what he was talking about.
12
dustonian said on January 2nd, 2012
Good one, Mr. Ellington. I don't claim to know what anyone is thinking when they vote... but I do know that if you don't vote, then by default you agree with the print guide grade/quality. Since so many climbers are lazy, as we all know, this throws off the statistical significance of the consensus ratings on the website. My next route shall be called... "Footloose"!
13
pigsteak said on January 2nd, 2012
I will admit it. I had a hacky sack in 1982, bought a book on break dancing moves (who didnt want to do the helicopter?), and watched soul train.
14
dustonian said on February 20th, 2012
New anchor 2/18/12. Thanks to Climbing magazine & Petzl's Anchor Replacement Initiative for the hardware.
15
rjackson said on July 7th, 2013
Burley up top. Would not recommend this for the beginning 5.8 leader. Bring some big gear, some little gear, and a good head if you think this may be at your limit. And thanks for the anchors!
16
jay2718 said on October 5th, 2014
This is a nice route. The face and corner climbing on the bottom is enjoyable, provided you have a large BigBro for protection, otherwise, you may want to chimney the crack for gear and security's sake. Regarding the grade, if Arachnid is 5.8, then maybe this could pass as 5.8, but if Autumn and Africa are 5.9, I think the layback on lead crux, with the mantle-ish finish is at least as hard as the cruxes of those routes.
17
mdanielmcc said on May 30th, 2016
I found it slightly more difficult than Autumn. I got a little offroute and ended up in the offwidth section at the bottom.. oops. Fun route thought with variety of placements and styles. The top is very cool.
18
Sarahbelzile said on April 18th, 2017
I put an X on two blocks 2/3 of rhe way up that moved when I tried to place a cam behind it. Scary!! Would NOT want one of those to fall!
19
Anonymous said on April 18th, 2017
Thank you for your efforts, no doubt after 25 years of uneventful ascents your graffiti has averted certain catastrophe.
20
Anonymous said on April 18th, 2017
+1 anon A suggestion Sarah, go to the route again because its great, and take up brush so you scrub your X marks off.
21
Anonymous said on June 7th, 2017
No, Sarah was right to mark those blocks, and we re-marked them on 6/4/17. They are completely detached and the upper one is movable. The wrong fall with gear in them could make quite the disaster to the belayer. I don't see anyone complaining about the giant X on Rock Wars.