COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.

Environmental Imperialism

This route is located in the Muir Valley at The Stadium

Endangered Species

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Ascentuality 5.11a (Mixed) ****

First Ascent: Jared Hancock, Karla Carandang in 2004
Length: 80ft
Bolts/Gear: 3/Thin gear (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Right of "Areterection" is this stunning line. Climb a technical face past 3 bolts to reach the steep striking orange dihedral. Bring some thin gear. Clean and wildly aesthetic.
Moves: Crack and Face
Descent: Ring anchors
Stays Dry: Stays dry
Owner: Muir Valley

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Quality Consensus

4 stars (19 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11a (14 votes)

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Submitted by: MikeWilkinson
Date: Dec 2nd, 2017

Submitted by: J-Rock
Date: Feb 15th, 2006


Anonymous said on March 2nd, 2005
J-Rock said on July 12th, 2005
The crux is bolt protected. The actual crack is probably only 5.9 climbing and there are huge jugs on the right side of the dihedral. It actually feels more like an arete climb. Fun moves.
JR said on November 14th, 2006
I usually feel kinda dirty climbing a mixed route. But this route is really nice, most likely my favorite mixed climb.Good job.
Wolf said on July 16th, 2008
I would say the top part is 5.10. There are huge jugs, but there's a long move between some of them, and the crack was too small for me to get my fingers in. Awesome, awesome line. Really ridiculously fun.
pawilkes said on September 14th, 2008
i felt like the bolted section was pretty casual, mid-10. the top was probably mid-10 as well. awesome route though. while its mostly thin gear, a #1 makes for a bomber piece
der uber said on November 3rd, 2009
I was a little disappointed that you don't climb in the crack more. lucky for me I couldn't reach from jug to jug. overall it's a beautiful line and a fun climb.
dustonian said on May 10th, 2010
Killer route, thanks for leaving it mixed. Putting cams behind the highest block at the top of the crack seems like a bad idea... it's a bit hollow and fully detached from the main part of the wall.