Henry Kissinger's Glasses

This route is located in the Gray's Branch Region at Military Wall

Forearm Follies (to 2nd set of chains)


19.
+1
1 votes

Forearm Follies (to first set of chains) 5.11d (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Porter Jarrard
Length: 70ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This climb is located around the buttress left of Henry Kissinger's Glasses.
Super fun and boudlery for the first four bolts, then a nice rest and just hang to the (first set of) chains. Upgraded to 5.11d from 5.11b and split from the full, 12b version.
Moves: Bouldery or Technical
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: NFS
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

4.3 stars (50 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11d (43 votes)

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Comments

1
Spragwa said on November 8th, 2005
Spicey. Potential for a big 'ol whipper at the last bolt! Totally clean though.
2
Meadows said on March 9th, 2007
Another route that shows what a gem Military is.
3
Anonymous said on December 24th, 2007
chossin
4
pawilkes said on February 18th, 2008
the holds on this route are stellar, amazing to use and really neat just to look at. beautiful rock, all swirly and colorful. i thought the 11d pitch would be much harder than it was.
5
Anonymous said on February 19th, 2008
11b
6
Acadien said on June 9th, 2010
I took the biggest whipper of my life on this route...I fell while the last bolt was in my face (unclipped)...45footer!
7
climb2core said on December 24th, 2012
Great route, bouldery first 3 bolts, great rest around bolt 5, and then some moderate but sustained and varied climbing to the first of chains. Take advantage of the rest, and and the next 30 feet shouldn't be bad. Also consider stick clipping the 2nd bolt vs the first. The are only about 3 feet apart and it was awkward trying to pull slack for the 2nd bolt with my waist below the first bolt (easy to z-clip).
8
pigsteak said on December 24th, 2012
is it time to chop the first set of anchors and make this one long pitch?
9
Anonymous said on December 24th, 2012
I vote yes. Rebolt this fucker and 'forget' to put in 2 sets.
10
pigsteak said on December 24th, 2012
any idea on the history of two sets of chains..seems a bit wierd considering one rope makes it down....
11
Anonymous said on December 25th, 2012
was bolted before 60m ropes and a 60 barely makes it down. has been rebolted and the chains should stay. do the whole thing or do the first pitch if it's raining. anchors should stay.
12
dustonian said on December 25th, 2012
Yeah, I don't remember the bolts being particularly in need of replacement on this route.
13
climb2core said on December 25th, 2012
Ummm, I was thinking we needed more "2 pitch" routes like this in the Red. I was actually going to start picking my projects based on this. The best way ever to get points and fail to do the climb. Kipp and Dustin, please take note.