Fallen Angel

This route is located in the Southern Region at Purgatory

Fat Man's Misery


9.
+1
1 votes

Gluttony 5.12a (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Kenny Barker in 2005
Length: 75ft
Bolts: 7 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Step right from Fallen Angel to locate this bolted line. Climb up a slab and crack then move out onto the face at the third bolt. Crank through a tough move to reach a sloping ledge. Continue up the overhanging face on perfect pockets to reach the vertical run to the anchors.
Moves: Pockets
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

4.23 stars (62 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12a (52 votes)

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Comments

1
allah said on November 28th, 2005
This route has been done 11/27/2005 FA. Kenny Barker Dont really have a rating as of now but is a fun route. everyone feel free to get on it.
2
ray said on March 12th, 2006
Cool line Kenny. Felt about .12a. Cool shouldery gaston move down low.
3
pigsteak said on March 12th, 2006
nice line....i second the 12a rating..def. not an 11.
4
allah said on March 13th, 2006
Sounds good, I thought it was about 12a also, but wasnt forsure. Im psyched people are getting on this line now hope everyone has a good time on it
5
Power2U said on March 30th, 2006
Awesome movement. Good stuff.
6
ninesixfour said on April 7th, 2006
Great route Kenny.
7
Green3 said on April 17th, 2006
great line, careful with the undercling at the fourth bolt, grab the right side of it, guess it will go eventually
8
Yasmeen said on October 25th, 2006
***** route, Kenny. Thanks for putting this up!
9
allah said on October 26th, 2006
Anytime chica
10
Meadows said on April 24th, 2008
This is one of the coolest routes I've been on recently. Nice work, Kenny!
11
chill said on April 28th, 2008
One of the best of the grade that I've done anywhere
12
dustonian said on March 25th, 2010
fun route! leaving the corner at the third bolt seemed contrived.
13
crayon said on May 17th, 2010
If you fall clipping the anchors, you will hit the ramp. I know it's unlikely, but I thought I'd just throw in a heads up.
14
Brentucky said on May 17th, 2010
The slab ramp that goes less than half way up the route? That sounds like some vicious penalty slack.
15
rdo'c said on May 17th, 2010
If you try to rodeo clip the anchors from the rest jug beneath the last both and you blow it you may hit the ramp. The question is, if you successfully complete this maneuver does it count as a send?
16
Anonymous said on May 28th, 2010
It's about a 12 foot run to the anchor, so the fall would be 24 feet plus rope stretch and the couple feet or so that your belayer gets sucked up (depending on relative weights). So it's easily a 30 footer with an upper limit of 35 or 36 feet. Yes, you do leave the ramp maybe 25 feet up, but the ramp also continues for another 20 feet or so at a consistent angle. Also, the route is right trending, so a fall from the anchors is under a portion of the ramp that is higher up than the portion you left initially. I'd say the portion of the ramp under the anchors is at a good 37 feet or so. So, a fall from the anchors leaves you a maximum 35 feet below the anchors and 40 feet above the deck, which is a couple of feet above the ramp... Definitely close enough to warrant consideration....
17
crayon said on May 28th, 2010
Woops, forgot to sign in. That last comment was mine.
18
said on May 30th, 2010
why its huge jugs up there going to the chains......lol if u fall going to the top you probably deserve to hit the ramp....jk
19
allah said on June 8th, 2010
I had seen a few people fall from the anchors of this route, after pulling the bulge, and with a good belay they were fine. If you or anyone else feels this route needs another bolt feel free, just do a good job putting it in and don't ask someone else to install it for you. I felt the bolt placements were fine when I placed them. But do what you will, just don't think of placing one on Dracula, that shit will get yanked out so quick! :)
20
dustonian said on June 8th, 2010
this route does NOT need another bolt
21
climb2core said on April 30th, 2012
Great route. Pretty sure there were 7 bolts, not 5. The moves leaving the slab at the 3rd bolt were cool, but it seemed really odd because after you clipped the 4th bolt, I had to consciously try to not go back to the slab for the obvious rest as it seems that it was intended to be "off route" a la Paradise Lost.
22
Anonymous said on November 27th, 2012
I heard that who can walk up the ramp if ya needs to with your feet and make this a little easier than 12a
23
zdordai said on April 5th, 2014
yes, continuing up the slab ramp after the 3rd bolt is "off", partially because the fall would be real lame and the climbing on the face is great. awesome line except for the slight elimination.
24
Anonymous said on October 26th, 2017
For reference on the fall at the last bolt. I fell at the anchors on this once with some clipping slack out and didn’t hit the ledge, felt like I had a lot of room as well. I’m about 170 and my belayer was about 130 or so for weight reference. So, if you absolutely eat shit up there it’s safe. But it was a damn good fall ha, was hanging near the third bolt. Sent it the next go though and I can confirm as everyone else has said, it’s a darn good route, one of my favorites, you’ll smile the whole time.
25
Sarahbelzile said on October 28th, 2017
SUCH A GREAT CLIMB! Really grateful that this line exists and that I got to climb it. I thought the bolting was super thoughtful and I felt very safe on it. Thanks for putting it up. Kenny! It feels like a perfect 12a to me.