The Proverbial Donkey

This route is located in the Southern Region at Purgatory

Lucifer


12.
+1
1 votes

Dracula '04 5.13b (Sport) *****

First Ascent: Kenny Barker in 2005
Length: 60ft
Bolts: 7 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Move right from The Proverbial Donkey to the next bolted line marked by a sharp corner. Power through the initial technical and brutal moves to reach a decent clipping hold. Climb a crack for a few feet then bust left. Hold your breath for the clip then make your way to the next bolt. Recharge for the long run to the anchors. Great climbing.
Gets wet near last few moves during heavy rain.
Moves: Bouldery
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:
classic (1) bouldery (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

5 stars (13 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.13b (10 votes)

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Comments

1
Anonymous said on July 6th, 2005
Possibly the best route for the grade in rrg. bolted well thanks for the climb!
2
allah said on July 7th, 2005
Thanx, Its great to know someone is getting on this route and liking it as much as I do.
3
Anonymous said on July 9th, 2005
no thank you, this and p lost remind of rumney climbs, steep powerfullll and bouldery, a good change of pace from all the long haulouses around -danny
4
Horatio Felacio said on August 8th, 2005
i thought this thing looked kinda chossy from the ground, but it's got really cool climbing. good work kenster.
5
SCIN said on March 20th, 2006
Kenny, this is one of the baddest ass lines in the Red. Thanks for bolting it.
6
allah said on April 4th, 2006
Glad to see you gettting on this line ray I want more and more people getting on cause it is sooooooo goooooddddd
7
cassebn said on April 24th, 2006
Unbelievable...One of the finest gems in the RRG. Combines brilliant movement on amazing features coupled with an exciting finish. Truly inspiring! Thanks for such an amazing addition to the southern region.
8
kafish2 said on April 30th, 2006
I finally got on this today, sick man, just sick
9
Anonymous said on November 27th, 2007
THIS THING IS SICK. I got on P.Lost and thought "hmm, that felt hard for .13b." then I got on this line and my mind was changed. Rad Rad Rad.
10
pumpout2004 said on April 12th, 2010
most footwork intensive route i've ever tried. spectacular...
11
ray said on April 19th, 2011
This has to be one of the best lines in the country, not just the Red.
12
aburgoon said on April 19th, 2011
yeah... except for the wasp's nest.
13
allah said on April 24th, 2011
Now that you have done this route Ray I would like to enlighten you that you will need to be taking the 12d points for it. Shit is Piss Easy! Man up and get on something harder old man! PUSSY!
14
SCIN said on April 25th, 2011
This coming from a guy who couldn't do Golden Boy? That line is like easy 13a.
15
allah said on April 25th, 2011
Just had so much fun on that route I never wanted to clip the chains so that I would always climb on it! Thats what happens when you find something you love so much :)
16
rockjunky45 said on November 5th, 2011
A new bolt was added at the top last week so there's not the scary runout anymore.
17
allah said on November 6th, 2011
SHIT! Now the red will become even more busy!!!!!!!!!!! WTF!!!!!!!
18
shear said on November 15th, 2011
Cool...now one of the best routes in the Red has been dumbed down. I expect to see much 8a spraying about how soft Dracula is now. Good work guys.
19
dustonian said on November 15th, 2011
I think that was a joke.
20
Anonymous said on November 15th, 2011
what scary run out, that is lame, if you can't find a good belayer to belay you don't get on it
21
climb2core said on November 16th, 2011
If there was a bolt added, pretty sure allah would turn around and make the 20 hour drive back just to chop the bolt. He wouldn't be making jokes...
22
dustonian said on November 16th, 2011
Not a joke apparently.... was this sin approved by mighty Allah? I've caught many a whipper from the top of this route without incident. BTW if you can't find a good belayer then you shouldn't climb anything, period.
23
SCIN said on November 16th, 2011
Kenny approved it. It definitely was pretty exciting without it. It'll probably make it easier to work the last blind moves.
24
Anonymous said on November 16th, 2011
All that blocky choss out west must be making him soft
25
Anonymous said on November 16th, 2011
WEAK SAUCE! That used to be one of the scariest/most awesome whips in the red.
26
Anonymous said on November 16th, 2011
adding the bolt was super gay... hope the krew chops it.
27
pigsteak said on November 16th, 2011
now that'd be interesting..the FA approves the addition of a bolt, but a different party decides to chop it....can't wait for that one to play out.
28
allah said on November 16th, 2011
I approved the bolt because over the years there has been a lot of crying about the "Run out". I got tired of all this crying to me about it and said that I do not live in the area now and that I didn't care one way or another so go ahead and put a bolt in if you like. I have said this probably 3 or 4 times in the last 6 months and someone actually put the bolt in. The thing that made me not care was the fact people were velcroing 5 ft slings to the wall to clip. IMO thats more retarded than adding the new bolt. The adding of the bolt was not what I wanted but it is better than having velcro on the wall!
29
Anonymous said on November 16th, 2011
If Kenny is cool with it, no one should have anything else to say about it. No one says you have to clip the bolt if you like the awesome/scary whip.
30
JR said on November 16th, 2011
Let's see...Kenny approved it. Someone took the time to bolt it. Everyone will clip it. The only people that would be against it are the ones that have sent it the other way. Congratulations senders of Dracula '04. You will be recognized. For now on people are only sending Dracula 2011.
31
Anonymous said on November 16th, 2011
Yea, saw some faggot hang a sling from the anchor like a baby and got his head wrapped in it... dumb ass.
32
Anonymous said on November 17th, 2011
Yeah...bunch'a faggots. Hanging slings...ya faggots. FAGGOT!!
33
tbwilsonky said on February 28th, 2012
obviously it is the gheys who are ruining the climbings with their slings and general flamboyancy.
34
der uber said on October 8th, 2012
Absolutely one of the best routes in the red. A great way to finish the season.
35
LeeAB said on November 8th, 2012
I will say that an additional bolt at the end is probably a good addition. There is a good place to clip and on my first burn I fell nearly the length of the route and ended up lower than my belayer, who was good, I just pitched on the move to the anchor clipping hold. A great climb for sure and harder than P. Lost by some amount.
36
slashface said on February 9th, 2013
Weather it has been retro bolted or not the climbing reamins the same. Downright amazing! I had attempted the route before the new bolt placement. I didn't think the runout to be much of an issue in terms of safety, fun fall. However the blind moves at the end were a bit difficult to work. Im excited to get back on it, new bolt or not. No amount of gear could destroy the movement of this rig. Thanks to the equiper of this route!!
37
stix said on November 11th, 2014
I was surprised to see new steel permadraws on this since it has sat without for years now. Especially considering how easy it is to hang and clean. Seems even more odd that whoever hung them didnt hang the 3rd which is the one draw that you dont hang from a big jug. There were also massive tick marks on literally every usable surface from the ground to the chains. Paradise was all ticked to hell too. I think we counted 47 tick marks heavy enough to see from the ground. I cant figure out if climbers feel they actually need the ticks and permadraws or what, but it sure looked like shit out there yesterday.
38
Anonymous said on December 4th, 2014
I added the perma draws to this route. The 4th is hard to clip/hang and the first 3 are easily hang-able with a 12ft stick clip. The last perma is there for working the route. I did not tick this route to hell and will be removing the draws at the beginning of next season because every time I went to go try it the holds were caked in chalk and there were new, somewhat silly ticks. The route is not "literally" ticked bottom to top. Please don't misuse a word to try to make a point. Paradise lost has had draws on it for years and nobody has complained. I'm happy to clean them off and use them myself if they aren't appreciated. Zane
39
Anonymous said on December 4th, 2014
dracula is easy to hang and easy to clean. with so many long and steep routes in the red where fixed draws make more sense it seems like a good idea to keep the short, no-so-steep ones free of fixed gear. this route already had an extended climbtech on the one draw that is difficult to hang. the last day i was on it in early nov were ticks on most every hold i touch with my hand or foot, but i don't think these were yours zane as they were different than the ticks that returned all of oct. they popped up the only time i was there when the fixed gear was hanging coincidentally. i actually took some pictures that i'll try to post it was so crazy. keenan
40
dustonian said on December 4th, 2014
Last time I was at Rocktown there are literally 1-3 FOOT tickmarks on almost every popular problem... it was incredibly depressing even for a bouldering area
41
Anonymous said on December 6th, 2014
yeah i definitely re-ticked a few things in there that helped me, i was fairly certain mine numbered under 10 or so... what you were talking about sounded pretty excessive. i'm open to cleaning the gear off of this climb next time i'm out if that's the consensus. i honestly prefer the routes i am projecting to not have massive ticks in bizarre places, unbrushed holds, or people looking to dog up the permanent gear which are things i've encountered the last few times i've gone out to try it. if you're gonna chuff, please climb on paradise! thanks. and send me those pictures keenan, those sound great Zane
42
dustonian said on December 6th, 2014
get a room, you guys are being way too civil
43
Anonymous said on January 26th, 2017
https://vimeo.com/78018419
44
Bobaflex said on April 23rd, 2019
Looks to be an extension on this route now...anyone have information??
45
Anonymous said on April 25th, 2019
Yea, Kenny Barker bolted it last week. Hopefully he does it soon, it looks incredible!