Dracula '04

This route is located in the Southern Region at Purgatory

The Castle Has Fallen


13.
+0
0 votes

Lucifer 5.14c (Sport) *****

First Ascent: Mike Doyle in 2006
Length: 100ft
Bolts: 9 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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To the right of Dracula '04. Climb relatively easy moves to the third bolt then bust left through a V7 boulder problem to reach a quick shake at the fourth bolt. Recharge then boulder through a more difficult section to reach a moderate rest at the fifth bolt. From the fifth, endure the redpoint run to the break. At the break, ponder on what a bad ass mofo you are, then finish it up.
Moves: Bouldery
Stays Dry: Light Rain
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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5 stars (1 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.14b (5 votes)

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Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Apr 21st, 2014

Submitted by: allen
Date: Nov 23rd, 2009

Submitted by: allen
Date: Nov 23rd, 2009

Comments

1
allah said on May 6th, 2005
5.15
2
allah said on May 11th, 2005
all the moves have gone
3
Anonymous said on June 23rd, 2005
whoopie!!! write something when you actually send it maybe then we'll all be impressed with you. but probably not. keep up the good hang dogging!!!!
4
allah said on July 8th, 2005
I dont know who you are and I dont really care. I am trying to get people motivated to get on this route cause honestly there isnt anyone that climbs in the red that is strong enough to do it, so maybe when the Euros or someone from out west gets on this route they will possibly get psyched to get on it. So maybe you should keep you opinion to yourself since you obviously have no clue what you are talking about
5
Anonymous said on August 25th, 2005
put up a good pic of it and that will get people psyched
6
allah said on August 31st, 2005
there are good pics up, that wes took
7
Anonymous said on October 20th, 2005
is this really an open project?
8
allah said on October 28th, 2005
yea it is open, if you think you are strong enough feel free
9
Anonymous said on April 29th, 2006
look, I know who you are and I dont care. I mean, I don't know who you are, I don't care. anyway the point is, i'm trying to be cool and tell you about a hard rout that is cool...get it!! its bad ass man! get on it bum shacka shucka..youknow? I mean do you even know what I'm talking about? I didn't think so! so go away! This route is neato!
10
SCIN said on April 29th, 2006
This route looks like Realization. I can barely make out the faint shallow pockets on it from the ground.
11
SCIN said on November 22nd, 2006
Anyone know if Mike Doyle did this yet? Does he have an idea on the grade?
12
allah said on November 24th, 2006
He thought 13b
13
ray said on November 25th, 2006
Whatever dude!
14
mike_doyle said on December 15th, 2006
Solid, Solid 13b...
15
mike_doyle said on December 15th, 2006
Ok, well I redpointed Lucifer yesterday and for awhile now people have been asking me how hard it was, and how it compares to other routes etc… I’ll do my best to answer these questions here. First off let me just say that I am going to grade it 5.14c but that I won’t be surprised if it gets downgraded. There’s a few reasons why I feel it deserves 14c: - IF (and that’s a big if) Thanatopsis is 14b then Lucifer is probably 14c - I can’t deny that it took me 6 weeks to do. I’ve got excuses about skin, temps, blah, blah… but the fact is it took me 6 weeks and I’ve never worked a route that long and that continuously; 2 days one, 2 off – for 6 weeks. So sure, why not, 14c. - I feel that grading it 14c will lead some of ‘them’ (you know who ‘they’ are) to travel to the red, climb Lucifer and get on some of the other projects that are around and still being bolted. - The most compelling reason – my 8a score could use the extra 50 points. Here’s why it might get downgraded: - The route is not necessarily my style. I felt the two main crux moves were throws where if you were slightly taller it might be easier. Just as I fit well on Thanatopsis, someone else might fit better on Lucifer. - I was being dumb, had bad skin and bad temps for many attempts :) - I’m probably not strong enough to climb 14c How does it compare to some of the other routes at the red? Well I’d say it’s more involved. - Thanatopsis was easy climbing to the 4th bolt, a six move boulder problem to a huge rest, and then one last hard move. - 50 words for a pump, which I only got on once, seemed like it had a shorter, harder section between the 3rd and 4th but then a no hands rest at the 5th and easier climbing to the anchors. I can’t really compare the two routes that much since I was only on ’50 words’ once when at the time I couldn’t do all the moves on Lucifer yet. I knew Andrew was working ‘50 words’ and felt that both lines deserved to be done. Knowing Andrew was working it and getting closer to the redpoint I felt my time would be better served working Lucifer. They are quite different routes. Best of luck to Andrew, I really hope he gets the FA on that thing. - Lucifer is easy climbing to the third bolt, then a V7/8 boulder problem out left and up to the 4th, to a clipping hold where you can shake quickly. After that you do a V9/10 boulder problem to a moderate rest at the 5th and then the power endurance 13 move V9/10/11 boulder problem to the break. So while I think Lucifer has harder moves than Thanatopsis, I think 50 words has a harder, shorter section than Lucifer. That’s my opinion, but whatever… grades are relative and it’s all for fun… Flame on…
16
SCIN said on January 19th, 2007
I really don't think that you actually did this route Doyel...if that is your name? Anyway, this took me like, let's see...1 TRY and it felt EASY! .14a maybe.
17
Yasmeen said on January 20th, 2007
Damn Ray... Even with the 105 points from this TR onsite, you're *still* 2nd to Power2U... I'm sorry.
18
Anonymous said on January 20th, 2007
Congrats on the send, homie.
19
pigsteak said on January 21st, 2007
dude, you only sent with my shoulder stand....send denied brah...
20
Anonymous said on June 13th, 2010
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21
climb2core said on October 30th, 2012
"4th go, far from onsight and then weird betas, but it's hard anyways! Witnessing Ashima sending this this rig was one one of the impressive things I have ever see. Nice flow and incredible body power. I hope she will not loose passion, but it seems she is psyched for climbing!" Adam Ondra. Looks like Mike doesn't have to worry about it being downgraded anytime soon.