The King Lives On...

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Gallery

27 Years of Climbing

2 votes

Johnny B. Good 5.11a (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Gary Drexler, Tim Powers in 2004
Length: 85ft
Bolts: 9 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Move right from the previous line to locate this route which begins with a bulge leading to a low angled section. Tread lightly low angled rock past thin sidepulls to a severely overhanging section near the top. Crank out the roof on big jugs to a pocketed section just before the anchors.
Descent: Ring Anchors
Stays Dry:
Owner: RRGCC
bouldery (1) fun (1) juggy (1)
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Quality Consensus

3.67 stars (144 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11a (115 votes)

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Sorry, no pictures to be had. {want to add a photo?}


Gaar said on May 28th, 2005
shitty start but GREAT finish
sigs2001 said on June 2nd, 2005
Watch for loose shit at the top. A guy went out left too far and pulled a basketball sized boulder off it....just heads up. Pretty fun route though.
Anonymous said on June 2nd, 2005
Thats what you get for climbing off route!
Wes said on August 14th, 2005
Very cool route once you get past the start!
pigsteak said on August 28th, 2005
agree with all...suffering through the start is worth the time. the slab and steep section are pleasant.
Huggybone said on November 27th, 2006
Also quite clean now.
Meadows said on May 27th, 2007
Did this route for the first time today - deserves more than 2 stars.
anticlmber said on June 1st, 2007
not a bad route. clipping the anchors is piss though.
Anonymous said on September 10th, 2007
Incredible footwork in Major Tom's Pictures of the route.........uhhhh.jerry ?
jlu said on November 21st, 2007
Very fun climb, 45feet of 5.7 followed by a pumpy 5.10d-5.11a overhung face to the end
Lander said on June 11th, 2008
tough anchor clip.
FujManiac said on November 26th, 2008
easy climbing to tough pumpy overhanging section. Really fun!
mpittdawg said on June 11th, 2009
extremely underrated route. Tons of fun!
yarrrrbian said on March 15th, 2011
Easy climbing till the roof. Short over-hung section with a sketch anchor clip (for an 11a).
nik said on May 8th, 2012
really easy climbing down low to 3 bolts worth of really overhung jug hauling (well, maye one non-jug in there, depending on your perspective of what constitutes a jug). save a little juice for the anchor clip!
Josephine said on June 13th, 2012
Found a great left hand w/thumb catch to clip the anchors from. Had to hang up there and look for it for a bit though. If 11a is tough for you, have your partner hang the draws!
swj said on August 22nd, 2012
This was so much fun! Rocked a nice big move heading up to a jug in the middle of the roof section, and cranked to the anchors. Only to get there and have a tough time finding a relaxed clipping stance. A few feet of pumpy climbing + bent arm clip = 20 foot whipper.... Loved it though! Got back up there and clipped the anchors but it still was awkward, I think I am missing some key beta.
Anonymous said on September 15th, 2014
Anchors are bad. The right bolt is loose, left hanger spun when weighted. Climbed 9/14/14
Anonymous said on September 16th, 2014
Anonymous said on March 24th, 2015
The anchor looks like it needs to be replaced, The left anchor bolt is loose and rusty and is positioned in a bad spot where it is being torque on and making it worse.
stime187 said on October 15th, 2015
Just an update -- the anchors looked great today. Also some new glue-ins along the way. Thanks to everyone for the hardwork/time maintaining bolts!
Anonymous said on October 15th, 2015
Thanks for commenting. Community funded replacement hardware raised by the RRG Fixed Gear Initiative (RRG FGI) placed during Rebolt the Red on 8/30/15. You can find out or more or donate at
OMP said on June 26th, 2017
Anchors need reset again. Glue is gapping and allowing a little movement. Fantastic route! Thanks for the maintenance!
Anonymous said on June 26th, 2017
Route closed until Tuesday June 27th for maintenance. Thanks!
Anonymous said on June 27th, 2017
Anonymous said on June 27th, 2017
Checked the anchor out today and everything looked fine, I did not notice any movement. It is normal on hot days for a little of the hilti brand glue to run out of the front of the hole, rest assured there is still plenty of glue in the hole. I reused an original hole to place a 3rd glue-in to calm any nerves and removed the remaining 5 piece spinner that was up there.
Anonymous said on June 27th, 2017
During installation on hot days*
Anonymous said on April 21st, 2018
classic 10d
DrRockso said on September 7th, 2018
Have some quicklinks hanging out in your pack that are just waiting to replace worn out gear? Given the traffic this sees it could use 3/8" or 1/2" quicklinks at the end of the chains people are currently lowering off.