Triple Sec (a.k.a. 50 Bucks)

This route is located in the Muir Valley at The Sanctuary

Immaculate Deception


11.
+0
0 votes

Buddha Slept 5.12a (Mixed) ****

First Ascent: Jared Hancock in 2005
Length: 100ft
Bolts/Gear: 3/Small/medium gear. Thin cams. (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Climb past the first 3 bolts of "Immaculate Deception" up and left to a good stance below a gorgeous left-leaning crack. Enjoy fine fingerlocking and laybacking until you reach a thin dihedral below the chimney. Crank on up and clip the anchors on Triple Stack (50 Bucks) or continue up the chimney to an exposed ledge with bolted anchors on the right. From here it is also possible to climb a short (but dirty) chimney for another 20 feet to the actual clifftop.
Moves: Crack and Face
Descent: Ring Anchors
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.75 stars (4 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11d (2 votes)

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Comments

1
J-Rock said on April 13th, 2005
Wild and exciting!
2
J-Rock said on July 12th, 2005
The crux is bolt protected. The arching crack is mostly 5.8 or 5.9 climbing and it is quite fun.