David and Goliath

This route is located in the Southern Region at Solar Collector and Gold Coast

Amelia's Birthday


35.
+0
0 votes

Zone of Silence 5.12b (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Dave Hume in 2002
Length: 55ft
Bolts: 5 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Begins 15 feet right of the previous line. This contrived line wants to follow what would be an excellent 12c, but climbers are staying right, on the path of least resistance, making it a not-so-great 5.12a/b.
Moves: Pockets
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.71 stars (7 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12b (7 votes)

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Submitted by: ray
Date: Oct 8th, 2006

Comments

1
Green3 said on October 9th, 2006
Snapped a jug at the start, but not too much harder. This is a really cool route to the last bolt, fun moves on pockets, then you look up at 15 feet of mossy blankness, and will probably decide it's not worth it. Anchors should be where the last bolt is, too bad.
2
Alex3000 said on April 30th, 2007
Think green3 might rethink comments. Last bolt, 3 moves to a big throw for a flat lip. Rock is decent, movement and features are awesome. Bolting forces you out onto pockets in an otherwise blank face. Really fun. Four stars out of five.
3
Green3 said on April 30th, 2007
Yeah, yeah. Since that last comment, went back, scrubbed and ID'ed a couple teeny holds along with a 4 foot throw at the end, stellar route. Thanks for the belays Alex3000.
4
Power2U said on May 14th, 2007
Great slightly overhanging pocketd face climbing.
5
JR said on October 22nd, 2007
This is not a great route. The name is not great. Alex3000 was eluding to the forced bolt job. Hell you can almost tell from the picture it runs right next to the weakness(the line). Where you are supposed to volunteer for harder climbing is anyone's guess. You can also skip the the "3 moves to a big throw" if you can clip while handjaming. I know it can't happen but I wish someone could "fix" this route. Either drag it a bit to the left. Force the harder climbing. Or drag it to the right. At least then it would follow a line(not talking about a line of chalk).
6
Green3 said on October 23rd, 2007
The "3 moves to a big throw" are under the ledge directly in line above the last bolt, before traversing out left to the anchors, which is best clipped off a hand jam. Is that what you're talking about JR? I've heard there are crimps instead of the throw to the ledge, guess that's the confusion. I agree the anchors should be lower and right. After you hit the ledge, it gets a little ridiculous.
7
heavyc said on October 20th, 2008
stay left and its a 4 star solid 12c, stay right and its a 1 star 12a
8
Kai said on November 7th, 2008
I loved this route! Draw a little line in your head from the last bolt to the anchors, now climb that way and you'll be on route. Yeah, that's the crux.
9
512OW said on March 28th, 2009
Damn shame that right line is there. If it weren't it'd be a great 12c. As it is, its a little contrived, as you can bail at any moment. Its very possible to climb to the horizontal above the anchors to clip, and no harder....just balancey.
10
dustonian said on November 9th, 2009
Contriv-o
11
Brentucky said on January 23rd, 2012
Seemed like it followed the obvious sequence straight up and just barely left of the bolts to me. All the solid pockets and holds were there to see leading directly into clipping jugs, and then it headed right after the last bolt to gain the jug ledge. I won't be climbing this again without a medium cam to stop the massive runout to the chains, but I thought it was pretty fun and bouldery.