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This route is located in the Muir Valley at Great Arch

Lip Service

0 votes

Black Powder 5.10a (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Rick Weber, Jared Hancock, Karla Carandang, J.J. in 2005
Length: 85ft
Bolts: 10 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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More juggy climbing on fantastic features. Begin 15-20 feet right of "Dyn-o-mite" and angle up and right. The moves at the 3rd bolt should be interesting as there are a variety of ways to climb this section.
Moves: Jugs
Descent: Ring anchors
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: Muir Valley

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Quality Consensus

3.58 stars (134 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10a (119 votes)

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Submitted by: ddchil01
Date: Jun 29th, 2017


Spoonman said on April 19th, 2005
Good job guys and gals, very nice route!
weber said on April 22nd, 2005
Now one of my top 5 favorite climbs. Long and pumpy. Went straight up for a pincher at the third bolt. A big thanks to Team Muir who set up this climb and tricked me into an FFA.
Paul3eb said on June 7th, 2005
a really fun climb for the grade. surprisingly clean. well bolted, too.
jcoover said on September 5th, 2005
this is my favorite climb at the gorge. so much fun! i mean how many well protected 10a's are there out there that are 85 feet?! not many. i love it! thanks so much to the people that bolted this route!
Gaar said on September 26th, 2005
God i skipped the last 4 bolts on this thing! Interesting! climbs fun
Feanor007 said on May 26th, 2006
cool moves
Dhaulagiri said on May 31st, 2006
This route and the route to the left could/should really be just one line no? Pretty easy for 10a
K-Dawg said on June 29th, 2006
don't let the look of the start bother you if 10a is near your limit. good route with good holds
Captain Bad Beta said on July 6th, 2006
Fun route. The start isn't bad at all. After the first bolt it's an easy 10. Alot of fun.
keith_b00ne said on August 30th, 2006
Cool moves. Love the bouldery start. Very sustained at the top with a couple no hands rest. One of my favorite at the red.
bryanboonern said on August 31st, 2006
Stays dry in a downpour. Going for the fourth bolt took some thought.
bryanboonern said on October 2nd, 2006
I was there a couple days after heavy rain and this route and dynomite were essentially a water fall. I guess during the rain, the arch shelters the routes, but after the rain, the ground water seaps through the crack in the rock. Pretty disappointing.
Meadows said on December 4th, 2006
Holey crap, this was fun!!!
KyndKlimber said on May 30th, 2007
Great climb with an awsome view!
Josephine said on June 3rd, 2007
great climb for a beginning 10 leader. if the start looks scary - stick clipping will help.
dbarless said on June 15th, 2007
A solid line, fun climb on gently overhanging rock. Great hands and feet, well protected. The start is stout, a good V0 boulder problem, if that. Thanks for putting up a great line!
anticlmber said on September 4th, 2007
andrew.reed said on September 23rd, 2008
fun easy line
Jollygreen68 said on October 20th, 2008
Great route, felt a little harder than most 5.10a's. Great holds for the most part, and a huge variety of holds. I did get kind of pumped a little from having to hang on left hand the whole way up when placing draws and clipping. Fun route though with a nice right moving line through some slight overhang to vertical to slightly less than vertical, and nice and long. This and Dynomite are totally worth the trip.
Barnacle Ben said on October 4th, 2009
The boulder problem is good if you like gardening. The move at the third bolt was pretty cool, interesting feature. The rest of the route was weird but fun. I kept wondering if I had skipped a bolt and where the next bolt was. It really wanders. Long but eases up quite a bit at the end.
jlu said on April 26th, 2010
fun route, well bolted and very clean. not often you can find an 80' 5.10a... perfect for big groups planning to tackle lip service to add a mixed level of difficulty