Magnum Opus

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Solarium

Delicatessen


5.
+0
0 votes

Urban Voodoo 5.12d (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Greg Martin, Bryan Boyd, Andrew Gearing in 2005
Length: 95ft
Bolts: 10 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Nice boulder problem to get to 3rd bolt, good holds to a deceptive roof crux, then mostly good holds to anchors. Long Draws recommended to eliminate rope drag from roof.
Moves: Bouldery or Technical
Descent: Ring Anchors
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.5 stars (12 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12d (11 votes)

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Submitted by: SCIN
Date: Oct 23rd, 2006

Comments

1
Gaar said on September 27th, 2005
I broke a shitload of holds before the second bolt!! Cool obedish roof move up top
2
ray said on May 14th, 2009
Cleaned up a ton since 2005. Cool route. Hard boulder problem low up through cool roof moves.
3
XplosionOflaver said on March 18th, 2013
Now has bolts 2-6 permadrawed. Will be getting an extension for the third bolt for the boulder problem
4
Next Level said on May 31st, 2013
This climb could use some blue tickmarks between the 2nd and 3rd bolt especially.
5
bcircell said on November 17th, 2014
The second bolt is in a really weird spot in relation to the (perceived) path of the climb.
6
DrRockso said on October 15th, 2016
It appears the 1st bolt has been removed, the second bolt (now the 1st bolt) does a poor job of protecting the crux between 2 and 3 (1 and 2) still chossy in spots, broke a couple feet and a hand hold. Still a fun route but the dirtiest on the wall.