COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.


This route is located in the Muir Valley at Solarium

Summer Sunshine

1 votes

Super Best Friends 5.12b (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Bryan Boyd, Greg Martin in 2005
Length: 95ft
Bolts: 10 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Next route to the right. Also goes out the enormous roof. The crux is going from the third to fourth. It is a long move off of 2 crimpers to good ledge that you mantle onto w/o any feet for a no-hands rest. From there move quick through jugs until you get to the last few harder moves to pull onto the head wall. Hang on for the last 25 ft on the headwall and you're there.
Moves: Bouldery or Technical
Descent: Ring Anchors
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: Muir Valley

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Quality Consensus

4.59 stars (79 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12b (81 votes)

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Submitted by: Raiden
Date: Sep 4th, 2014

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Oct 23rd, 2013

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Oct 23rd, 2013

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Oct 23rd, 2013

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Nov 23rd, 2011

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Nov 23rd, 2011

Submitted by: SCIN
Date: Oct 22nd, 2006


stix said on October 16th, 2005
It doesn't look like he's posting anyting about it, but this route has been done and it's more like 12b and rad.
ray said on October 30th, 2006
Big holds separated by a few tough moves. Worth doing.
512OW said on June 24th, 2007
Mantle without any feet? Was the giant heelhook on the ledge "out"? Regardless, it was great fun. Easily flashable... just keep pulling. Not many bad holds on the top 3/4.
woman said on July 26th, 2007
Why is this temporarily closed?
rhunt said on July 26th, 2007
maybe its an experiment to see how many people go to this online guide to find the latest rules compared to the people who just show up at the route to find out if its closed.
Meadows said on January 2nd, 2009
So far, this is my favorite on the wall. Fun times.
caribe said on August 12th, 2009
I love this route and wanted to contribute. After asking permission, today (2009.08.11) I put 6 permanent draws on the in-cut, hardest-to-clean portion of the SBF starting at bolt 3 to bolt 8. Bolts 1, 2, 9 and 10 and the anchors will require draw placement on lead. Bolts 3-8 are very weather-protected so these semi-permanent draw placements should last a long time. Let's keep an eye on these. At the time of placement, the protection is super sound. Climb at your own discretion. We are all climbing at our own risk. I do not take responsibility for the fitness of this gear, the anchorage or the stability of the rock to which it is attached; although, I will check them periodically as long as I am climbing in the RED. Enjoy. Arthur
pigsteak said on August 12th, 2009
you said arthur...tee hee.
Meadows said on October 23rd, 2009
The clif notes to Caribe's message: You need to carry about 4 draws (6 if you don't stick clip first and don't use the leaver biners on anchors). I love this route, btw.
calvinivlac said on October 18th, 2010
It's fully equipped as of now except the first two bolts, and the second one is optional because the extended draw is pretty close after you make one move. Thanks to Caribe and whomever else put up the permanent draws. Enjoyable, pumpy climb.
Anonymous said on November 5th, 2010
I thought the anchor draws were getting tad sharp so I ended up rapping. Maybe need to be replaced soon.
Anonymous said on May 26th, 2011
can a 60 meter rope let you down from this route?
dustonian said on May 26th, 2011
climb2core said on June 27th, 2011
Fun climb bottom to top! Really only have to crank through 30-40 ft of steep stuff after the no hands rest at the ledge.
Chuckdott said on September 4th, 2013
I find this route by far the easiest at this grade if you have average man sized hands and know how to hand jam. At least 4 great rests up there, probably more but you don't need them. Hardest move is around V2/3. Regardless of the grade, this is my favorite route at the Red hands down.