Double Stuff

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Great Arch

Dyn-o-mite


3.
+0
0 votes

Ear Drops 5.8+ (Trad) ***

First Ascent: Jason Haas, Sarah Maclean in 2005
Length: 80ft
Gear: #1-4 Camalots (report bad anchors)

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Climb up the wide dihedral in the left side of the Great Arch and continue to a set of anchors.
Moves: Wide Crack or Offwidth
Descent: Fixe Anchors
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.15 stars (13 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.8+ (11 votes)

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Comments

1
John E said on October 17th, 2005
Any beta on the lower part of this climb?
2
haas said on October 31st, 2005
Depends how tall you are. My wife is 5'6" and she stayed high, underclinging the crack and keeping her feet way high and traversing the roof. I'm 6' and too tall for that, so I stayed a lot lower, using her foot holds for hand holds and using edges way lower down for feet to traverse. When we talked about a grade for the route she was convinced 5.7 - finally pays to be short on a route for once
3
pawilkes said on July 4th, 2010
i turned around to get higher into the chimney and then turned around again once i gained the roof crack. pretty weird.
4
rjackson said on October 18th, 2013
I climbed the face below the crack protecting out of horizontals. I think the route deserves the "+" due to the move from the last horizontal into the crack.
5
Anonymous said on February 2nd, 2018
Follow 2 glue-in bolts up some slab to the right of the start then join back into the crack to avoid the often wet section. Does not change the grade. Variation is called "Ear Ache."