Black Powder

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Great Arch

Beef Stick


6.
+3
3 votes

Lip Service 5.11c (Sport) ****

First Ascent: J.J. in 2005
Length: 80ft
Bolts: 9 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This amazing route has it all. Starts as a juggy roofs and then becomes technical face with big slopers. Classic.
Moves: Bouldery
Descent: 2 bolt cable anchor
Stays Dry:
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:
slopey (2) classic (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.58 stars (83 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11c (62 votes)

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Comments

1
Caspian said on May 16th, 2005
This route is way fun. Its like climbing at HP40 with a rope.
2
J-Rock said on May 16th, 2005
Definitely one of my favorite routes in the Valley. The slopey crux is straight out of HP40!
3
ray said on May 22nd, 2005
Damn!!! HP40 for sure!
4
Paul3eb said on June 7th, 2005
completely unique climb on some of the most beautiful rock in the gorge. incredible climb that is very deserving of "classic" status.
5
Bashie said on July 6th, 2005
Great route. I was glad I stick clipped the first bolt. Reminds me of climbing at the New. Sloper heaven.
6
Anonymous said on September 28th, 2005
I wouldn't do it again...but I can see why folks like it - very different from other routes in the area. I'd save my five stars for another route...
7
caribe said on May 16th, 2006
Tried for 20 min., but I could not pass the slopers. They haunt my slumber. Anyone have beta?
8
pigsteak said on November 15th, 2006
pull harder caribe. this route is a true star..one of my fav's at the red as well.
9
Sco Bro said on November 16th, 2006
Caribe, try something easier like No Place Like Home or attack the crux from the right.
10
pigsteak said on January 7th, 2007
this says JJ is the FA, but the print guidebook says it is Josh Thurston....
11
512OW said on May 14th, 2007
By the time I got to the anchors, I was giggling uncontrollably. This route is Sooooo rad.
12
woman said on May 15th, 2007
*giggle*
13
dmudie said on July 2nd, 2007
So so fun, lots of variety. Anchor question though... why is there a single cable and ring between the two anchor bolts instead of two chains and rings?
14
anticlmber said on September 4th, 2007
90 degrees in the shade, just right for the send.
15
chouca said on October 14th, 2007
Great fun if you love slopers. I´d give it 4 stars if the start was better.
16
absolutsugarsmurf said on November 10th, 2008
1/3 choss-pile, 2/3 awesome route. How can this route have 5 stars with such a terrible, dirty beginning? We should be careful to rate the entire route and not just the fun sloper boulder problem.
17
SCIN said on November 10th, 2008
22 people disagree.
18
mike_anderson said on May 13th, 2009
Some unusual moves and interesting features, but to me, not enough to get 5 stars. Consider some other 5 star routes: Orange Juice, Golden Boy, Gung Ho, Return of Chris Snyder...this one is not in the same league.
19
blakeleathers said on July 30th, 2009
best route at the crag.
20
caribe said on July 30th, 2009
photo submitted by Caribe © Elodie Saracco,
21
Anonymous said on July 31st, 2009
damn caribe you sexy mofo, you need to learn to climb and keep your damn feet on the wall! frikkin sweet pic by elodie! -tucky
22
SeanStone said on March 22nd, 2010
There's no way I would've gotten this onsight if I hadn't just got back from an HP40 trip! Soooo much fun!!!
23
jlu said on April 26th, 2010
i missed the little pocket on the move before the crux, but made it an even mroe fun dynamic move... then the crux felt way harder than 11c to me, pure scary friction
24
ACD said on October 30th, 2010
11c, on a warm day this would be a sad joke! Cool limbo dancing followed by a very tricky sloping crux. Cruel but satisfying.
25
Annea said on November 16th, 2010
One of the coolest routes ever!! Fun crux problem to solve.
26
climb2core said on September 6th, 2011
Once my belayer and I got done with spitting sand out of mouths, this climb turned into a unique face climb. I have never been to HP40, but will make sure I avoid it like the plague in the summer based upon all the comments. Enough sand to take away one star from a 5 star ratings IMO. Highly recommend still.
27
Spikeddem said on May 17th, 2012
Not sure why someone said that this route is scary. It's protected extremely well. The opening moves could use a broom to clear off the sand, but after that even those moves would still be good. This is the best sport route I've done in the gorge so far. I was disappointed that it took me three tries, but excited that I got to climb the route three times. ******BETA*******Since someone asked: the beta for me involved a heelhook, a right-hand crimp, turning a left hand jug into a mantle, and then reaching with my left hand.
28
nik said on April 1st, 2013
great climb! can't remember doing another route quite like it at the red. (+ what everyone else says above)
29
Anonymous said on July 10th, 2013
I walked over from the Solarium to see what stayed dry after a week of downpours. This one looked good.
30
whoneedsfeet said on March 30th, 2014
Great climb! Highly suggest.
31
merrick said on November 13th, 2017
Fantastic route, I even liked the thuggy start. The switch to the slopey problem solving was fun. This was a pretty unique route for the Red and one that I would recommend to anyone.