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Back Door to Paris

This route is located in the Lower Gorge Region at Long Wall


0 votes

B3 5.11b (Trad) *****

First Ascent: Jeff Koenig, Tom Souders in 1984
Length: 120ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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This is the obvious splitter handrack that begins on top of the large detached block right of Back Door to Paris. Begin by climbing the first section of Perforator, then traverse left.
Direct Start: Lead straight up the face to the base of the crack using small pockets for protection. 5.10c R Tom Souders, 1987
Moves: Hands
Descent: Rap anchors-double ropes required
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: NFS

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Quality Consensus

4.93 stars (28 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11b (18 votes)

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Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Oct 25th, 2012

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Oct 25th, 2012

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Oct 25th, 2012

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Oct 25th, 2012

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 18th, 2005


Party Boy said on April 15th, 2003
No anchors, only very small tree (backed up with long slings). I personally think that the top part is PG-13/R.
CBP said on August 7th, 2003
killer line, with a commiting move to the of the best in The Red!
Artsay said on November 15th, 2004
I heard the name stands for "Beene Brothers' Best"... And that it is!!! Truly a stellar line in many ways.
haas said on May 22nd, 2006
Damn that top dihedral is spicy. I loved it!
symardila said on November 14th, 2011
There are bolted anchors in this now, beautiful line with great solid protection.
dustonian said on December 12th, 2011
Incredible climbing! Maybe the best crack I've done so far in the Red
Willy said on September 16th, 2014
This one throws at you just about everything you could think of. Starts with some fun easy wide, moves through fingers, hands, a sporty crux, and a very engaging dihedral up top. Deserves every bit of the hype it gets
johnwesely said on September 19th, 2015
Not quite as good as Inhibitor but still incredible.
Steve_BSU said on September 22nd, 2015
Climbed this route on sunday. What an amazing and fun line!! will really be happy to get back on it and get the red point and work it. At the top I was annoyed to find someone had put tick marks on feet and some crimp holds. Come on guys who the hell ticks a trad line!! If you have to, please brush them away for the next people climbing this!
Anonymous said on September 23rd, 2015
Wow, people will always find something to bitch about. Brush them off and get on with your life.
[email protected] said on August 28th, 2017
Took a fat whip onto a desperately thrown in C3, save some juice for the heart/breaker crux 2/3 the way up right before the coffin rest.
said on July 9th, 2021
So much gear can go in at the top. I got 5 pieces in after the roof on the final run to the anchor. Even if you place just a couple at the start of the dihedral, it'll be a clean fall in open air. Amazing climbing and great gear the whole way!