The "start" of the crag

This route is located in the Lower Gorge Region at Minas Tirith

Eight,Seven Central

0 votes

Minas Tirith 5.9- (Trad) ****

First Ascent: Bob Compton in 1975
Length: 80ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

Click for more images
This line ascends the large pinnacle with many different variations. The most popular line climbs the face along the crack on the east side of the pinnacle to a ledge. From the ledge, traverse right to a belay tree. Walk around to the west side of the pinnacle and climb up an overhanging face or traverse left to an arete to reach the summit. Variation 1 5.10d TR: Climb the face left of the first pitch. Variation 2 5.10a: Climb the face directly above the first pitch. Variation 3 5.4: Locate a crack a few feet right of a chimney on the south face. Climb this crack as the first pitch of the route. FA: Joe Hayden with aid, 1968. FFA: Bob Compton, mid 1970s. Variation 1: Bill Strachan, Robert Stauder, 1995. Variation 2: Tony Bubb, John Ciocci, 1994. Variation 3: Martin Hackworth, 1981.
Descent: Lower/Rap from anchors
Stays Dry:
Owner: NFS

Add / Edit Tags

Route Spray
Show Project
Quality Consensus

4.26 stars (19 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.9- (18 votes)

You must login to save your input!
+ add
+ add



Submitted by: Ascentionist
Date: Nov 20th, 2008

Submitted by: Ascentionist
Date: Jan 2nd, 2006


Ascentionist said on October 19th, 2005
Nice bike ride in to climb this while the road is closed. Didn't see a single person.
Crankmas said on November 20th, 2006
this line is classic-a must do RRG trad line
jrathfon said on April 12th, 2010
Bit of a schwack coming in, much easier going straight down back to the logging road. Awesome tiny summit! Really silly climb, but you are rewarded. Would be great with longer webbing (20ft total) to rap back down clean to the start of p1, instead of through briar and rhodo's on top of the 5.4 crack, easily done with a 50M. Joe Hayden really wanted it known that he tagged this sucker.
rjackson said on October 16th, 2011
I wouldn't call it silly, but I would call it one of the best views in the gorge. Well worth the bushwhack.
monty4355 said on June 19th, 2016
Now that they resculptured the land the camp site is no longer there. Now there is a field behind to shitters. Go to about 20 feet right from the left edge of the field then bushwack over some fallen trees and the "trail" is there. The trail is a very old and overgrown logging road but it is much better than going straight up the hill. Also the trail is basically a beautiful bed of poison ivy so maybe wait until fall.
taurusclimber said on October 20th, 2016
I counted at least 8 wasps at the top of the pinnacle. Had to bail after the first pitch. Take some wasp spray when you go. Also, the rappel tree on the right is dead and gone. You have to use the tree on the other side of the pinnacle. Looks healthy and strong as of 10/19/2016
Ascentionist said on October 20th, 2016
You can rap to the ground from the summit with a 60m rope. Take some webbing to leave unless you have rope pulling mojo. No need to use any trees to get off this thing unless you bail without summiting.
veela-valoom said on October 21st, 2016
We actually meant the belay tree. We assume the chains are still up there if you can survive the wasp crux. If you're planning to go up there I'd use GPS coordinates because the trail isn't very obvious. It's a bit of a trek.