Another Doug Reed Route

This route is located in the Gray's Branch Region at Military Wall

Things That Go Bump In the Night


22.
+0
0 votes

Jungle Beat 5.9+ (Trad) *****

First Ascent: Larry Day, Tom Seibert in 1979
Length: 180ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

Click for more images
This is the huge dihedral and roof left of Another Doug Reed Route.
Descent: Rap from tree-double ropes required
Stays Dry:
Owner: NFS
Steepness:

Add / Edit Tags

Route Spray
Show Project
Quality Consensus
 

4.82 stars (34 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.9+ (22 votes)

You must login to save your input!
stars
grade
attempts
+
-
spray
+ add
project
+ add

Charts

Photos


Submitted by: 45percent
Date: Jan 20th, 2009

Submitted by: Ascentionist
Date: Jan 2nd, 2006

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 19th, 2005

Comments

1
Larry Day said on January 31st, 2003
This is the kind of route I was always looking for in the gorge, but rarely found. Back in the 70s we walked past dozens of unclimbed lines that are now famous, driven by visions of routes like this. Relatively long for the gorge, and a little stiff for the grade, this climb is one of the best.
2
Power2U said on April 9th, 2003
I agree. This is a stellar multi-pitch outing.
3
tonybubb said on June 18th, 2003
I've seen some pretty good climbers get totally stumped on this line. we always said 5.9+... +what, I don't know. a #4 camlot is nice to have in the roof belay.
4
Yasmeen said on July 12th, 2004
This route is great! Every pitch was a blast, and challenging! We descended by walking along the cliffline away from Another Doug Reed Route and rapping off the tree with a bunch of slings around it, which will get you down to a ledge and another tree with new blue and red webbing on it, from which you can rap to the ground. So, we did 2 raps with a 70 meter rope and it worked just fine.
5
chh said on August 7th, 2006
Great route! Little bit of everything. LOVED the chimney moves, but the move out of the little belay cave in the roof was a little creepy. I have an older BD 3.5 that worked well there for the anchor. Saw a single mank webbing loop for the first rappel and replaced it with some brand new cord and a locker 8/05/06. The red and blue webbing on the lower ledge was still there too. Didn't have a 70 meter for the second rappell, but you can walk off if you keep heading away from "Another Doug Reed Route" from the ledge and down a gulley. Great experience!
6
climbhigh said on September 16th, 2006
amazing route. old school adventure climbing at its best. do this route !!!!!!
7
Stewy911 said on September 19th, 2006
How do you protect the bottom pitch. It looks extremely wide. do you face climb to the first waco and then get into the crack or start way back in the cave like feature and chimney the whole thing?
8
RRO said on September 19th, 2006
easy climbing to a perch and then you get good gear the rest of the way. dont let that part keep you away. now the start of the second pitch..........
9
Caspian said on September 19th, 2006
The gear is not wide except for the roof belay which, as tonybubb said, a #4 works well. I recall casual stemming and chimneying on the first pitch.
10
Anonymous said on November 18th, 2006
The biggest pieces I used were for the belay at the beginning of the second pitch. The wide crack that starts the route takes smaller gear(fingers, hands, occassional opportunity for even smaller pieces) towards the back. Your standard rack will be just fine. Even though it looks scary, I'd say the first pitch offers some of the easiest climbing in the route, except for the very end. Pulling out of that sweet belay spot into the second pitch though.....definitely the business.
11
L K Day said on March 15th, 2007
On the FA we did it in four short leads. As I remember it there was only one truly hard spot, the first move of pitch two, and this move was really hard. I was a little surprised that it ended up being graded only 5.9. Was this the grade I put on it? Not sure. I usually didn't grade routes, leaving that up to guidebook authors. I've heard mention of a crimper that makes this move a bit easier. I didn't see it, and just climbed the crack. Great protection but for the last short slab which is pretty easy.
12
Sco Bro said on November 3rd, 2008
So, there are rap anchors to the right of this climb before the top out. If you rap from here you will need two ropes. Don’t mistakenly assume that these will put you within reach of one of the sport route anchors. Instead you'll just find yourself dangling in space.
13
jay2718 said on April 12th, 2010
The route was stiff, but good. You need extra hand sized gear, and a couple larger pieces. Once you pull the roof, you can place a range of wired chocks, and smaller cams are useful here too. As far as the rap goes, we could not find it. What does it mean to "Walk AWAY from Another Doug Reed Route"? Either you walk left or right along the cliff, with a numerical estimate of how long in feet or minutes. We ended up bushwhacking all the way to the nose of the Military wall, found someone else's escape webbing, and made one rap to a large ledge, then a short rap off a tree, and then another long rap to the ground and ended up at Beenestalker, I believe.
14
Howie Feltersnatch said on April 24th, 2012
I think the rap anchors are very poorly done. The finish to this climb was a part of its allure. The 15'-20' of easy but heads-up climbing, totally different than the nature of the climbing below it, made this a little more of an adventurous route. I don't disagree that rap anchors for this route are a good idea and appreciate them protecting the top-out from traffic, but the location was not chosen well.
15
Jeff said on May 7th, 2012
Didn't see any rap anchors!
16
Souperman said on March 30th, 2013
Concerning the rap anchors: no point in climbing past those. The last 15 - 20 ft has no good placements in comparison to the rest of the route. An uprotected fall results in serious injury. A most badass climb however.
17
Willy said on April 29th, 2013
We were able to use the rap anchors up top to get to the second set of anchors on Forearm Follies. Not highly recommended but we didn't see another way down
18
megmay said on April 29th, 2013
Yes, the rap anchors in their current position detract from the overall climb and set a bad president. A dicey top out guards the top of many fine routes and make sitting upon the summit of a multipitch all the more rewarding. If you cant stomach the top moves, don't do the route. Not sure who placed the rap anchors or why they chose that location. If the motivation was to bring the level of the climb down to the lowest denominator of leader then where will it end? Did Larry or Martin grant permission for the addition of these anchors? If so, that's their choice, but if not, these anchors would better serve the route about 20 feet higher. Don't get me wrong, rap anchors will save the trees at the top of the cliff and slow the erosion that's currently causing the slab section to be so dirty and scary.
19
LK Day said on May 28th, 2013
Nobody asked us about adding anchors. The last pitch was kind of cool on the FA, providing an unexpected change of pace. All you had to do was kind of switch gears and be REAL careful on the slab. It wasn't what you'd call hard. Anyway, if just finishing the route was causing unavoidable erosion I'd have been OK with anchors. Though I would have preferred that they be on route and right at the last move before the dirt. Of course it's perfectly possible to rap from a tree without causing it any harm at all. That is, unless, it's that erosion thing again. In which case I'd say "you picked the wrong tree, keep looking".
20
shores said on June 17th, 2013
Rolo and I sent this on 6-16-13. Great climb. We used the rap rings just right of the final pitch. We had a 70m and it dropped us to a tree with slings in it. We notied the slings while we were at the first belay. I would not suggest doing this with a 60 m. It may work but it would be very close.
21
Anonymous said on May 6th, 2015
Wow is this thing crazy. Unreal climb. 5 stars all around adventure. make sure you tie some knots in the end because a 70 m rope won't get you even close to the ground from the rap anchors. However it will put you right at the the tree you see slung from the base of the route. Clayton.
22
caribe said on July 25th, 2016
Did this with Kenneth Johns on Sunday. The first pitch was soaked and the heat index was insane! I'm never going to forget this route. What a gem in sport route land! We tagged a 70 m rope and climbed on another. The rap to the ground wasn't dramatic. Tag line got a bit heavy. Initial movement out of the roof is certainly the crux (harder than 5.9).
23
Anonymous said on July 28th, 2016
Dang Caribe! What took you so long? - Willy
24
MikeWilkinson said on April 5th, 2019
Incredible climb. A few notes about rapping: 1. did 2 raps with a single 70m. 2. the last 15 feet adds very little, save for the experience of fully topping out. When I climb this again, I won't bother going up the last 15ft to the tree. 3. We rapped down from the bolted anchors (let's call this rap A) about 50-60 feet, and moved to climbers right about 35 feet, to locate some sport anchors for what appeared to be a second pitch above ADRR (rap B) and looking down I could see a ticked holds and chopped bolts from the extension ADDR- you can read about that route on the Forearm Follies page. Anyway, the second set of anchors for Forearm Follies (let's call this rap C) was another 10 feet down and 10 feet climbers right from rap B. 4. The left bolt of rap A had a loose nut that I tightened by hand. Sorry, brought no tools to tighten further. 5. The entire left bolt hanger of rap B was turning under tension and grinding away the sandstone behind it, so much so that I could see about 1/2" back into the bolt hole behind the hanger. Doing this climb again, I'd skip rap B and try to make it over to rap C. Prusik would be helpful.
25
DannyD said on June 1st, 2019
Loved this climb wish I’d tagged a rope up tho walking off was terrible! 5 star route tho so good