The Wal-Martification of Trad

This route is located in the Southern Region at Volunteer Wall

Tong Shing


9.
+0
0 votes

Family Tradition 5.10b (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Alex Yeakley in 2004
Length: 50ft
Bolts: 7 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Move right from the previous crack climb a few feet to the next bolted line on the wall which begins as a crack. Begin with hard moves down low and crimp up to a sequence of awkward moves to reach rounded bulges near the top.
Stays Dry:
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

2.97 stars (89 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10b (69 votes)

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Comments

1
Paul3eb said on May 1st, 2005
fun route.. pull some hard moves down low, crimp your way up to the buldges where you'll have to figure out somewhat powerful, awkward moves to get over.
2
Steve said on May 1st, 2005
Might still be some loose chunks on some of the ledges. Sandy Duncan toward the top, but hey its Red River sandstone your climbing!
3
Pete said on May 2nd, 2005
does not look like it stays dry
4
peteypablo said on April 4th, 2006
Choose wisely on which side of the last bolt you go one- one way makes it alot harder, just ask the people at the gallery who heard me yelling.
5
dah-le said on May 1st, 2006
Very scary looking block between last bolt & the anchors...seems attached to wall at the very top, but my partner heard things moving around in the crack, so be careful how you pull on those 'rounded bulges'...the thing is enormous & if it goes will make an impact (fortunately the belay seems to be out of the fall-zone). It is possible to avoid using it entirely, but trickery is required to avoid making very hard moves on very small crimps.
6
wannabecrackclimber23 said on July 7th, 2006
Oops only meant to post one pic. Very dirty, but fun, thought it was kinda easy. small hands fit into a lot of the cracks, noticed people went to the left which made it pretty easy.
7
Anonymous said on July 7th, 2006
What's with the bolts placed next to a perfectly good crack?
8
dlewis101 said on July 31st, 2006
The bolts are for the arete and face NOT the crack. That should be obvious. The top looks fine. It's not going anywhere. The bottom seems a lot cleaner now. In all, a fun route. Super well bolted.
9
p0bray01 said on August 18th, 2006
fun climb...I thought the anchors were placed a little high...had to pull a boat load of slack to clip em.
10
Stewy911 said on August 18th, 2006
Just hope you dont fall and your golden
11
BigRed said on October 21st, 2006
Not Stellar or worth the stars. Someones gonna kill themselves grabbin the loose rock on this thing (or kill thier belayer). I would pass.
12
K-Dawg said on October 23rd, 2006
I thought the route was done quite well. I agree with other, the boulder on the top (balancing on the fist sized rock) should be cleared out (by someone who knows what they are doing).
13
Captain Bad Beta said on October 24th, 2006
Great route. Had arete, face, crack climbing all on one route. Must agree with others that ALL the rock touching the boulder on the top is loose. Every piece I touched moved. I would avoid using it if you can.
14
Myke Dronez said on October 1st, 2007
Fun climb. Enjoyed the variety of terrain. Yes, there is some questionable rock in spots but come on people its rock climbing and not plastic pulling- go back to your gym if it really bothers you.
15
Saxman said on November 25th, 2007
I cleared out the boulder balanced on top of the small rock. Nothing is loosed at the top now.
16
jlu said on December 28th, 2007
be careful if it's raining, the bottom may look ok but the top 2 bolts get pretty wet
17
Lander said on January 13th, 2008
Broke off a BIG handhold above the fourth bolt. Nearly killed my dog. Placed it right at the base of the climb. Saw several scars where big chunks have broken off. Belayer (and others) beware!
18
Josephine said on January 13th, 2008
let's see - super sandy for the last 20 feet and a gigantic hold that came off and sent me (belayer) running - this climb just didn't seem that endearing to me. with all the other great routes that i could do, i don't know that i'll ever go back and waste my time on this thing again.
19
absolutsugarsmurf said on March 6th, 2008
Fell off the first go as holds snapped off right and left resulting in the worst lead fall I've ever taken in the gorge.
20
Meadows said on April 22nd, 2008
This was adventure climbing!!
21
Jollygreen68 said on May 8th, 2008
Pretty good start, but then it gets harder and weirder as you go up. Didn't like the route and found it to be quite a bit harder than the .10b/c rating.
22
gripster said on October 21st, 2010
Jeeze this route didn't seem that bad to me? I would recommend giving it a go. A lot of good routes have loose holds on them, what's all the drama about?
23
KifuCoffeeRoaster said on November 6th, 2011
Fun route with lots of variety. For shorter folks like me (5'8"), there's a tough spot b/w bolt 4 and 5 (if I remember correctly) where you have to plant your right hand in a small pocket (I was fully stretched out to reach it) and then totally commit to a big flat jug to the left. Miss and and you're going down; hit it and the rest of your holds, some rather small, are there. Just keep moving and you're good to go. All around great route. I didn't notice all the movement everyone else has mentioned.
24
ynp1 said on May 11th, 2012
I thought this route was easy for the grade and very straight forward, until the very end... Then kind of weird but good. The bolts are very close together, so think it is a good route for a beginner climber.
25
Anonymous said on May 10th, 2013
Climbed this route today and warn that the top is very chossy. I broke a huge boulder on the ledge that sent eveyone running. I wouldnt trust the top as another huge portion looks ready to go... If the chains get lowered to take the top out of play its a fun route.