Auxier Chimney

This route is located in the Tunnel Ridge Road Region at Auxier Ridge

Steal Your Face


2.
+0
0 votes

Excalibur 5.10a R (Trad) ****

First Ascent: Ed Pearsall, Doug Hemken in 1975
Length: 140ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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This striking arching crack is located left of Auxier Chimney. Begin by climbing a handcrack past a small tree to a belay on a small ledge. Continue up a thin dihedral to another belay beneath the final pitch. The final pitch takes on the right-angling crack to the top of the cliff.
Descent: Rap from tree or walkoff
Stays Dry:
Owner: NFS
Steepness:

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4.5 stars (2 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10a (2 votes)

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Comments

1
haas said on June 16th, 2005
The retrobolt is less than a foot from a bomber #2 camalot placement. Chop the bastard is what I say. Also, the whole route can be done easily in a single pitch with no rope drag if you use some slings on your placements.
2
Anonymous said on June 26th, 2008
The FA information here confuses the FFA party with the correct date of the FA, which used aid. Too bad about the bolt, since Ed made a real effort to free climb on only clean gear. -- Doug Hemken
3
SCIN said on June 26th, 2008
I'm confused as to what you are saying. Is the FA information wrong?
4
gravitycoach said on August 24th, 2010
SCIN, Ran into this following a thread on MP.com - sounds like Pearsall did the FFA in 1980 maybe and the first ascent was in 1975 but utilized aid. Not sure who to verify info with but noticed that the comments here never resolved things.
5
Anonymous said on November 11th, 2010
It was climbed with aid originally. Doug remembers the date, I would have to look up in some of my ancient stuff. the bolt is a shame. I took a pretty good ripper on my first try when I got to the crux with my hands reversed for the move. Could not figure out how to switch, tried to down climb and flamed out... I remember lifting Doug off his belay ledge !!! I got pissed instead of scared so went back up and pulled it. I remember thinking you better not fall again or you'll blow out the pro (small stopper half way in crack I think). Ed Pearsall Old times made me look up RRG and saw stuff from Larry Day. Great to see Doug here too. Those were some good times !!!
6
Anonymous said on August 6th, 2013
Good to see Ed stopped by here! His fall on the FFA was long and memorable - his shoe left a streak on the wall, and he lifted me up off the belay. - Doug Hemken