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Standard Route

This route is located in the Tunnel Ridge Road Region at Courthouse Rock

Bolt Route

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East Ridge 5.5 X (Trad) ***

First Ascent: Unknown
Length: 90ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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Walk to the east end of Courthouse Rock to locate a notch. Climb up a short face near a tree, duck into a hole, and continue up a slab to the summit.
Stays Dry:
Owner: NFS

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Quality Consensus

3 stars (2 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.7 (2 votes)

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Sorry, no pictures to be had. {want to add a photo?}


Ascentionist said on November 26th, 2005
Is this the striking prow on the SE corner of Courthouse or does this, as Haas suggested, start near the Standard Route on the east face and traverse left out to the prow/ridge to finish up?
Ascentionist said on November 26th, 2005
If the second option is the route, then a better description would be: Locate Standard Route, boulder up on a ledge to the left to begin climbing. Climb straight up to an ancient bolt and the traverse hard left to a hole feature for some gear, then angle up and left to the slabby upper prow and friction to the summit. Variation: Climb straight up from the bolt (5.8 X)
Ascentionist said on January 26th, 2006
New theory: this route goes straight up at the bolt on the east face of Courthouse. I climbed it again today and think that it fits the description well enough and the grade could just be a sandbag. The route is definitely X-rated. The bolt wouldn't hold a fly. There is a #1 TCU placement above the bolt and an empty bolt hole above that. This route is probably 5.5-5.6 but it is friction climbing on lichen covered rock. The position and exposure make it worth it. Its just a better top rope than a lead.
Wolf said on August 1st, 2007
That bolt wouldn't hold much. I think I could remove it with my fingers. But yesterday I took a leaver biner off of it. Somebody got lucky.
Danny said on November 13th, 2007
Also a blue and green alien can be placed side by side in the slot above the bolt.
Anonymous said on June 26th, 2008
The route with the bolt is NOT the East Ridge, which starts out of the notch, near the approach trail. The bolted route is one of several undocumented routes we did on Courthouse in the late 1980s/early 1990s. The bolted route (we called it "Warm Up", but you are welcome to rename it) does go pretty much straight up. It may have had two bolts once. We thought it was about 5.6 PG. - Doug Hemken