The "start" of the crag

This route is located in the Upper Gorge Region at Moonshiner's Wall

Ten Years After


1.
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Oberon 5.10b (Trad) *****

First Ascent: Jason Haas in 2004
Length: 65ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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Walk left past an overhanging area until you reach a large pine near two cracks. This line ascends the stunning overhanging hand crack in the featureless dihedral.
Descent: Rap from tree
Stays Dry:
Owner: NFS
Steepness:
hands (2) fun (2) beautiful (1) steep (1) pumpy (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.89 stars (27 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10b (22 votes)

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Submitted by: Willy
Date: Nov 8th, 2012

Submitted by: Willy
Date: Nov 5th, 2012

Submitted by: caribe
Date: Dec 28th, 2011

Submitted by: haas
Date: Dec 19th, 2005

Submitted by: Gaar
Date: Dec 19th, 2005

Comments

1
Gaar said on September 16th, 2005
Onsight!!!!! AWSOME!AWSOME!AWSOME! Top out is super sketch!!!
2
powen01 said on September 17th, 2005
Hey Haas, nice send.
3
powen01 said on September 17th, 2005
You too Gaar, I could tell how excited you were tonight when you told me about it. Awesome!
4
powen01 said on September 17th, 2005
You too Gaar, I could tell how excited you were tonight when you told me about it. Awesome!
5
powen01 said on September 23rd, 2005
Trundled a big, VERY loose block off of here today. Kdelap tells me that there may be one more up there that looks pretty nasty... Just a warning. Would be nice to see this route, and the rest of the wall, get some more traffic. As well, Kdelap pretty much cruised this one today. Strong.
6
kdelap said on September 23rd, 2005
Great climb! Felt more like 10b; my hands might just fit the crack though. A must do splitter!
7
haas said on September 29th, 2005
I thought the grade was soft too personally but my buddy kept insisting it was harder (he does have big ape hands though)
8
heroclimber said on October 27th, 2005
yaaay gaar, tell the whole world how good you are
9
Anonymous said on November 1st, 2005
Yaaaay i will!
10
kneebar said on November 14th, 2005
Super clean (except for the top-out) 5 stars for sure. Nice find Jason!
11
diggum said on November 14th, 2005
Really really fun route! Great jams all the way. Even fun for someone who can't climb cracks at the grade! 5 stars.
12
Myke Dronez said on November 29th, 2008
A rare treat for the Red. Please get out and give this one some traffic people.
13
caribe said on November 7th, 2011
Stellar!!!
14
Willy said on November 5th, 2012
Stellar! Steep jamming separated by good rests. Anchor situation was a mess and super sketchy. Cut off the old webbing that was fraying badly and equalized an 11mm static line between the huge tree off right and the small bush the original webbing was wrapped Can be easily top roped belaying from the ground now.
15
brhe224 said on June 29th, 2013
there are bolt anchors at the top now, not placed by me, but by some other anonymous good soul making the gorge a safer place!
16
kman154 said on September 5th, 2013
Good climb. Skip the rest and just push to the top. It is not that long. Great gear and perfect hands. I was really looking for a stiffer climb out of it though.
17
Cromper said on September 5th, 2013
That's what she said.
18
dustonian said on September 5th, 2013
kman gawt a big ol' dik