Moots Madness

This route is located in the Muir Valley at The Hideout

Shock and Awe


6.
+0
0 votes

Pre-emptive Strike 5.10c (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Mark Ryan, Jenny Wagner, J.J., Jared Hancock, Rick Weber in 2005
Length: 90ft
Bolts: 11 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Long sport route 15 feet right of "Moots Madness". Begins as thin crimpy face to a technical slab and finishes on huge overhanging plates. Very fun!
Descent: 2 bolt cable anchor
Stays Dry:
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

4.34 stars (115 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10c (105 votes)

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Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Apr 8th, 2014

Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Apr 8th, 2014

Submitted by: jordancolburn
Date: Mar 10th, 2009

Comments

1
J-Rock said on May 16th, 2005
For the grade to be accurate don't climb too close to the crack on the right. The route will feel much easier if you climb it to the far right and you will only be cheating yourself.
2
cassio598 said on June 2nd, 2005
The start is great, though it will surely get more difficult as the sharp holds get worn down with use. Definitely exciting if you don't stick clip. If all else fails, just chimney between the rock and the tree!
3
jlu said on July 24th, 2005
very fun route!!!
4
krabikrabi said on September 14th, 2005
Lots of variety in 90 ft., nothing sustained.
5
Anonymous said on September 25th, 2005
Whats with the cable anchor/single rap ring. A bit scary, unsecure looking. Good route but I don't like the anchor
6
merrick said on November 3rd, 2005
super route that keeps changing styles on you, this route has it all.
7
Feanor007 said on July 16th, 2006
i liked it better than boltergiest, super cool climb
8
kidney_dave said on May 27th, 2008
this route is really great, after Special K, probably the best line on the wall....
9
rjackson said on October 22nd, 2008
What a great moderate 10! It's all there, and then some.
10
bldrgrl said on March 16th, 2009
Apparently, lots of the little holds have chipped off the bottom, but definitely a bomber route!
11
jswan10 said on March 23rd, 2009
A solid 5 star climb, amazing.
12
Jollygreen68 said on April 27th, 2009
Interesting route. A few miny crimps and nothing else for the first 30-40 feet, then some very balancey barely there holds, and then super jugs to the top. It felt like two different routes, the bottom is very bare and balancey, not as much fun in my opinion, then the top is super fun, easy, and juggy. Overall it's a good route, and very tall. If it weren't for the bottom 20-40 feet, I'd give it a 5 star rating, but it's a definite must do.
13
Barnacle Ben said on October 25th, 2009
Better than Boltergeist. The business of this one is the crimpy vert section down low. There are a couple of tough slab moves comparable to the harder ones on Boltergeist. I was a little nervous about being pumped for the overhanging jugs til I realized there is a huge ledge right beneath them and the overhang part is something like 5.7 difficulty. Overall, stellar route.
14
Pangea said on January 19th, 2010
Climbed this thinking I was climbing a 5.8+ (because of the embedded tag that looked like it was under the route--that actually belonged to the neighboring crack). Doh! I was a bit relieved to learn after climbing it that it was rated higher. :-) Pretty crimpy in a lot of spots and some balancy moves required. Nice overall though.
15
climb2core said on October 28th, 2012
Stellar climb and the one to do at the Hideout.
16
friar_truck said on April 14th, 2015
Really fun climb. The slab section in the middle is balancy. Instead of going off to the right to the crack, going left offers a huge jug, but the rock is dirtier on that side. Get past the middle, and your rewarded with huge jugs to the anchors.
17
Daeris said on July 3rd, 2016
Personally, I think this is just a tad bit more fun than Boltergeist (and don't get me wrong, I think Boltergeist is amazing). Pre-emptive Strike is a diverse line that has a little bit of everything mixed into one route. It also helps that the last 20 feet are 5.7 jugs, so you can act all cool when you onsight this one. Easily in the running for one of my favorite current routes.
18
Tunica Intima said on August 24th, 2018
Agreed, better than Boltergeist. This route is great fun! Lots of variety, and just better movement!