Mirage

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Solarium

Abiyoyo


10.
+0
0 votes

Bundle of Joy 5.13a (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Andrew Wheatley in 2008
Length: 90ft
Bolts: 7 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Boulder problems with long moves between decent rests.. Be prepared to try hard for the final move guarding the chains.
Moves: Bouldery or Technical
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:
bouldery (1) classic (1) fun (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.78 stars (27 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.13a (16 votes)

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Submitted by: tyler.yarbrough
Date: Nov 9th, 2016

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Oct 23rd, 2013

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Oct 23rd, 2013

Comments

1
512OW said on June 24th, 2007
Theres a bat that apparently lives in the flake halfway up this route. Maybe its best not bolted...
2
V10Mike said on April 26th, 2008
Time to think about taking the fixed line down guys! It's been up there for years and is an ugly addition to an otherwise beautiful crag!
3
Andrew said on June 26th, 2008
This is now completely bolted, but a closed project. It should be sent very soon, and it is probably 13a. A very good line and very different from the rest of the wall, it stays at you until the very end.
4
pigsteak said on June 26th, 2008
I just sent it andrew..can I pull the red tag?
5
goodguy said on June 26th, 2008
Hey, cool! Im headed down, I'll get the draws and the tag for you.
6
Andrew said on June 26th, 2008
Neither the two of you could send it even if I gave you a years time, and steroids. Go for it, I have faith you can't send.
7
pigsteak said on June 26th, 2008
ah, you forgot my secret weapon sir andrew. anytime brad weaver sends, I live vicaiously thru him. you still sure you want "me" to give it a go? seriously, that thing looks fun. enjoy the sending process.
8
goodguy said on June 27th, 2008
oh man. not cool dude, not cool
9
SCIN said on June 27th, 2008
Sent it today. Fun climbing separated by a few boulder problems (V2-3ish). Michelle found a good way to do the long reach problems by using an undercling. Thanks for bolting it Andrew!
10
Artsay said on June 27th, 2008
Similar to Abiyoyo but slightly easier. Super cool though. Thanks Andrew!
11
pigsteak said on June 27th, 2008
owned. thanks for sending that michelle! it was taking andrew eons on his "super secret proj"....
12
SCIN said on June 27th, 2008
Okay, I admit it. Michelle and I didn't snag Andrew's project. I wish we did though.
13
Andrew said on July 4th, 2008
Sent and open as of July 3, 2008. Probably 12d, but I need help with the grade, because its hard to tell when you are a freak.
14
Anonymous said on July 8th, 2008
the last crux was crazy hard. felt like 12d up to that. probably a lot hard then 12d unless there is some secret beta that im missing. awesome route though!!
15
JR said on July 12th, 2008
I know DYNO!
16
pumpout2004 said on October 22nd, 2008
I know! grow wings like an albatross...
17
512OW said on April 13th, 2009
I really, really hate to say it, but this is a great route. Full value, no fluff, and the dyno officially goes for short people. I'm 5'8, only a mediocre dynoer, and was able to stick it. I can see falling up there a bunch, but I'll be back. Great work Andrew!
18
allen said on January 19th, 2010
the most obvious hold to dyno to has been ripped off the wall as of 1/18/10. move still goes off small left hand crimp. hard.
19
Andrew said on January 20th, 2010
I didn't use the most obvious hold on the FA, there is a slightly lower but worse hold I dynoed to. Good luck, glad you like it.
20
Anonymous said on March 9th, 2010
New Beta, No longer requires a dyno. Cleaned the lichen off of holds at top on left which were somewhat hidden. Probably more like 12d now, but very fun.
21
Andrew said on March 10th, 2010
Awesome, I love good beta. I will have to go back and check it out. Glad you liked it.
22
ray said on March 22nd, 2010
I didn't see any new brushed holds out left. I did end up doing this today though with a small crimp just beneath the hold Andrew dynoed to. I couldn't pull on it during the summer but could pull on it today with less humidity. The move is completely static this way and uses a right heel hook on the furthest right iron-oxide "tongue" while grabbing the slopey crimp with the left hand. Rock up on the heel and grab the hold Andrew dynoed to. Best route on the wall.
23
Anonymous said on March 29th, 2010
Dyno is easier than crimp move. Really not as big of a dyno as expected (based on the fact that when andrew has to dyno, you know your in for some serious shit). In fact my hand completely stayed on the crimp rail... i.e., more of a big throw than a serious all points off move. Fantastic route!
24
dan4geng said on October 20th, 2011
Someone should reinforce that flake. Some fat guy is going to rip it off and kill his belayer. Great rock! Good work Andrew for finishing it up.
25
tania said on November 18th, 2012
How big is the dyno on this compared to the big move towards the top of Racer X?
26
tania said on November 19th, 2012
I ain't skeered.
27
Anonymous said on November 19th, 2012
What cams does it protect with Ray?
28
SCIN said on November 19th, 2012
I did the entire thing with the smallest 3 Aliens and a single pink TCU.
29
Chuckdott said on September 4th, 2013
This route is great. It has really fun movement, great rests, and the only really hard move is the V5ish deadpoint at the top. I've been trying it in the heat this summer, but I need cooler temps to stick the slopers up there. I have pulled the left and right variation, which both feel about the same. I think I'm sticking with the right side though out of preference. Psyched for fall!
30
Anonymous said on December 8th, 2015
As of November 14, 2015, the hanger that protects the dyno (the last cliip before the anchors) is loose and looked slightly bent.
31
J-Rock said on October 2nd, 2016
This was originally my project route. I put in the anchors and the top 3 bolts and then moved away. I planned to come back and finish it, but never had a chance. Thanks for finishing it Andrew. I knew it was going to be a good one.
32
Andrew said on October 6th, 2016
Its really cool to finally find out who's bolts those were. I always wondered. Ray, if you ever read this you should add his name in the description.
33
tyler.yarbrough said on November 9th, 2016
This route is bonafide bad-ass! Even if I fall at that dyno a dozen times i'll be psyched to climb the first 3/4 of the route each time. Thanks Andrew for putting this beast up.
34
Andrew said on November 9th, 2016
thanks.... great picture.
35
Nick said on November 11th, 2016
Hell yeah that's once of the best pictures I've seen on this site, rad!
36
Aksama said on November 23rd, 2016
I think the climbing from the flexy hold to the rest-hueco is some of the best climbing at this crag! What a blast. Psyched to find some static-beta for the top as a shorty.
37
DrRockso said on December 6th, 2017
Spinner with bent hanger at crux replaced with wave glue-in 12/5/2017. Added Petzl steel carabiners to the anchors to replace the mank aluminum.
38
Climbike1 said on October 20th, 2018
Stellar climbing up to a stupid move before the anchor. Will never try again and definitely do not recommend.
39
Anonymous said on October 20th, 2018
Sounds like you're just weak .
40
DrRockso said on October 21st, 2018
Climbbike1: "Love the 12b portion of the route, hate the 13a part"
41
Ninjadoc said on November 22nd, 2018
This route was fantastic! Really special and loads of fun. Highly recommend!