Come to Me Marie

This route is located in the Southern Region at Left Field

Hopscotch


6.
+0
0 votes

If Trango Could Whistle 5.8 (Trad) *

First Ascent: Matt Tackett, Jason Haas in 2005
Length: 100ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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Locate a wide crack splitting the face 20 feet right of the previous line. Ascend the crack using mainly face holds and throwing in a couple chickenwings. Pass over the occasional bulge and top out.
Descent: Walk off left, following the old pipelines down the slab.
Stays Dry:
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3 stars (3 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.8+ (4 votes)

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Comments

1
ynot said on October 31st, 2005
I had a friggin near epic trying to free this thing.
2
Anonymous said on November 1st, 2005
Kinda choss, kinda run out at top, bet you had a great time on it.
3
RRO said on November 5th, 2005
Glad you liked it ynot. What happend ?
4
ynot said on September 10th, 2006
Rope drag shut me down 15 feet short of the top. It went today in 3 pitches. Double large cams are nice to have. It's cleaned up with traffic, but a foot is broke at the crux. I still like it. the bulges keep it interesting. I keep wondering if theres a way to make the strait up version better where the crack disapears. it's too shallow there for good pro or I used the wrong gear, and the fall looks sketchy.
5
tradotto said on April 1st, 2013
Got in over my head on this one. It felt way harder then 5.8 about half way up on the little bulge/roof. Double up on the 2,3,4 and maybe even split into to pitches if you can. It is possible to setup a rappel from a tree at the top. Ended up walking up the old oil pipe and cleaning from the top. Maybe next time...
6
Anonymous said on December 6th, 2015
Climbed this yesterday in a single pitch. Was a bit dirty on the face heading up, then on the upper slabs it was really sandy. Hidden crimps and using body tension to chimney up made it go, but took forever. Terrible rope drag by the time I got to the top, might have been better with longer slings on my pro? Used a couple 2s and 3s, one 4, and had to place a few smaller pieces in really deep to protect sketchy, dirty moves over the bulges. Once past the bulges you hit dirty slab with no more cracks for pro, so is runout. I traversed right to ascend to the next ledge and slung a tree, topped out another 15 feet up from there. Wouldn't climb it again, but had a good time pushing myself to finish it. Belayed up a second from on top to clean gear, then hiked down climbers left following the pipelines.
7
Anonymous said on December 7th, 2015
Wow. Great story.