COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.

The "start" of the crag

This route is located in the Southern Region at Purgatory

Looking Through the Devil's Window

0 votes

Butterfly Gangbang 5.8+ (Trad) *

First Ascent: Matt Tackett, Jason Haas in 2005
Length: 80ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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Just before going through the arch to reach the main sport routes of Purgatory, walk left 50ft. to find the next three lines. This is the left leaning flake that starts as a handcrack and has a tree 50ft. up on a ledge. Try not to let the butterflies violate you as you grovel up the widening handcrack.
Descent: Rap tree above Mist of Funk
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: RRGCC

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Quality Consensus

1.5 stars (2 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10a (2 votes)

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Submitted by: haas
Date: Dec 19th, 2005


ynot said on October 18th, 2006
steep and footless for 8+ I wouldn't be suprised if it gets bumped up, but maybe that's because it kicked my butt
RRO said on October 18th, 2006
we had no idea what to rate it. compared to dicey or good tang it may be a little soft. still a fun shorter route for the offwidth climber
pigsteak said on October 24th, 2011
fun my was tina toproping as the second, and about blew a gasket. holy crap that felt hard for 5.8+
RRO said on October 26th, 2011
yeah but we called it 5.8 with draws hung..
pigsteak said on October 26th, 2011 that is why I thought it was so hard.....
MikeWilkinson said on September 11th, 2017
awkward moves going between armbars, the occasional jam, and laybacking the sloping flake. Harder than 5.8.