Jungle Direct

This route is located in the Southern Region at Drive-By Crag

Giblets


36.
+0
0 votes

George of the Jungle 5.9 (Trad) **

First Ascent: Jason Haas (solo) in 2005
Length: 0ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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25 ft. right of Mud on the Rug is a crack that starts about 20ft off the ground. Climb the initial part of Mud on the Rug then traverse right to a ledge (or start the route directly, on slab jugs just left of a vine-choked crack). Follow the crack and face up a 3-bolt variation to the top.
Descent: Bolted anchor
Stays Dry:
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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3 stars (5 votes)
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5.9 (5 votes)

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Comments

1
captain static said on May 8th, 2007
I don't think the way Jason did the climb as a solo is the way you would climb it as a trad lead. I had been eyeing this crack for years and RRO & I went up there to give it a go not knowing it was George of the Jungle. We went directly up through the bushes to reach the ledge at the base of the crack which is actually not too bad. The first part of the crack goes up through an A-shaped overhang and then eases back after the overhang. About 2/3rds of the way up the crack takes a 90 degree angle right and ends into what I though was going to be a chimney but is actually an offwidth. I got stuck in the OW and had to lower. RRO went up and was able to unlock the crux by using a small pocket on the face. I thought this move was solid 5.10. Above the OW crux there is a lot of loose rock and the top out is pretty manky. It sounds from the description like Jason avoided the OW by going straight up the face above where the crack ends? If this is the case then as a trad lead it would be a serious R if not X climb.
2
dustonian said on March 5th, 2013
Great jamming and good rock! Not 5.6 by any stretch of the imagination. There is a direct finish with 3 bolts that looks like 5.10-something and a 2-bolt anchor for descent off either variation of this route, but the bolts are in bad sandy rock and need to be moved. Thanks though to whoever put them in.
3
dustonian said on March 5th, 2013
Also, despite what the description says, this route has its own start on some juggy slab well right of Mud on the Rug.