Sunbeam

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Sunbeam Buttress

Out of the Dark


2.
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0 votes

Moonshine 5.10a (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Jared Hancock, J.J., Bram Bell in 2005
Length: 60ft
Bolts: 5 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This route begins left of the slabby blunt arete that is 15 feet right of "Sunbeam". Climb past a bolt to reach the ledge and then clip the next bolt and pull the juggy roof. Journey upward past a few more bolts to an interesting finish. If you liked "Creature Feature" then you will probably enjoy this route too.
Moves: Jugs
Descent: Ring anchors
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.42 stars (78 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10b (91 votes)

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Submitted by: J-Rock
Date: Feb 14th, 2006

Comments

1
Paul3eb said on June 26th, 2005
the jugs will surprise you.. don't let the five bolts scare you: they're more than enough and they're in good spots.
2
J-Rock said on July 1st, 2005
This is definitely Muir Valley's version of "Creature Feature".
3
Captain Bad Beta said on October 2nd, 2006
I found this route to be nothing like Creature Feature. I thought the bolts were in bad spots (especially the third one that if you blow leaves you smacking the ledge you just pulled). If you are new to leading and looking for some 5.9s to climb, head back to Great Arch or Great Wall for some better climbs in your range.
4
K-Dawg said on October 4th, 2006
Creature Feature is a friend of mine. You Moonshine, are No Creature Feature!
5
flint said on May 29th, 2007
Great warm up route for the surrounding climbs.
6
Andrew said on May 29th, 2007
So what you are saying is that this route sucks, because Creature Feature is garbage.
7
dbarless said on June 15th, 2007
The roof moves may be juggy, but they are not 5.9 moves, solid .10a moves
8
anticlmber said on March 26th, 2008
good climb. tougher than creature feature by a mile.
9
Jollygreen68 said on October 20th, 2008
Pretty good route. Very tough move getting out of the huge ledge for a 5.10 climber. And the top is definitely interesting. I cruised to the top and then got shut down instantly. Took me a few minutes to figure out where the few holds were and then scramble to the anchors. Not a 5.9 climb. I've climbed 10d's that were easier. And even though it has some good holds most of the way, it wasn't all that fun. But I'd probably do it again. Also a skin peeler, sharp rock on this line.
10
DuppyC said on November 3rd, 2008
Don't listen to JollyGreen, just like the rest of the routes here, getting off the ground is the hardest move, but, it is certainly nowhere near .10d. Really fun route and a great warm-up to the rest of the routes here.
11
randomboulder said on May 26th, 2009
fun roof move, but didn't care too much for the rest of the route.
12
jenbongo said on July 28th, 2009
I see the resemblance to Creature Feature, but this one takes more strength to pull the roof, has smaller holds on the vertical section and an extra awkward spot near the top.
13
gripster said on October 31st, 2009
i think my ego is the only thing that kept me from yelling take on this warm up route. 1st edition guide lists it as a 9+, but it is considerably harder than creature feature.
14
Barnacle Ben said on December 13th, 2009
"tougher than creature feature by a mile." Word.
15
Chiyram said on September 14th, 2014
Far harder than creature feature. lol Crimps all the way through that thing. Fun though.