Close [x]
adventerous arete beautiful bouldery classic confusing contrived crimpy dihedral dynamic exposed fingers fists fun hands juggy long offwidth pile pinches pockets pumpy runout scary shady sharp short slopey steep stout sunny technical vertical
COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.

Zambezi Plunge

This route is located in the Lower Gorge Region at Pebble Beach

 Sunburn

11.
+0
0 votes

Ju-Ju 5.10b (Mixed) ***

First Ascent: Charles Tabor, Frank Waters in 1989
Length: 60ft
Bolts/Gear: 5/ (report bad bolts/anchors)

Click for more images
This route ascends the arete just right of Zambezi Plunge. Begin on the face right of the arete.
A small cam protects the lower section.
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: NFS
Steepness:
crimpy (1)
Add / Edit Tags

Route Spray
Show Project
Quality Consensus
 

3.41 stars (39 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10b (31 votes)

You must login to save your input!
stars
grade
attempts
+
-
spray
+ add
project
+ add

Charts

Photos

{add your own picture}
Sorry, no pictures to be had. {want to add a photo?}

Comments

11 comments {add your own comments}
1
haas said on July 6th, 2004
excellent climb!
2
makisupa said on April 18th, 2005
Second bolt is spinning badly and a tad runout to the third....makes for an interesting route
3
Ascentionist said on November 29th, 2005
This crag is old enough to warrant some retrobolting.
4
Brentucky said on June 8th, 2008
not sure why this is listed as mixed unless it's b/c of the rounout between 2nd and 3rd. however, you're clipping the 3rd from a HUGE ledge (if you're < 5'7"ish you might have to make a small move with a descent hand, but still not bad)
5
krampus said on June 8th, 2008
Ha, you beat me to it brentucky, seriously though, its not more mixed than the rout next to it.
6
Wes said on June 8th, 2008
The mixed part is going to the first - a nice small cam in a horizontal. Otherwise just boulder up to the first bolt or stick clip it. And, yes, this area really needs some bolt fairy love.
7
jrathfon said on November 16th, 2009
fun slab climbing
8
tcarter said on September 12th, 2011
We climbed this yesterday and it was really fun but there are two spinning bolts on this now so def needs some attention
9
dustonian said on February 11th, 2013
Replaced the ancient spinners with stainless glue-ins. Thanks to Patrick, Bob, Jason, Dan, Aaron for the help... some truly scary old junk on this wall!
10
dustonian said on May 26th, 2014
If anyone feels like it, smash in the old studs on this and Sundance with a hammer. Also the old closed-shut anchors need to be removed with a 9/16" crescent wrench
11
merrick said on October 25th, 2016
Despite Dustin calling this a sport climb in the 5th edition guidebook it still has a very oldschool feeling with long runouts up high. Lots of fun and mental for the grade. Thanks for the new glue-ins!