Predator

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Sunbeam Buttress

Universal Gravitation


13.
+0
0 votes

Prey 5.11b (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Jared Hancock, J.J. in 2005
Length: 55ft
Bolts: 6 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This route is 10-15 feet right of "Predator" and has another powerful start. Undercling, crimp, and jam past the roof start to easy face climbing and another smaller roof near the top. Finish on the large ledge above and watch the climbers falling or sending at the Solarium.
Descent: Ring Anchors above ledge
Stays Dry:
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.54 stars (28 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11 (36 votes)

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Submitted by: taurusclimber
Date: Jun 6th, 2014

Submitted by: taurusclimber
Date: Jun 6th, 2014

Submitted by: taurusclimber
Date: Jun 6th, 2014

Comments

1
J-Rock said on August 30th, 2005
Nice traddy start.
2
corduroy said on August 30th, 2005
really fun start - - just watch your rope - the little sharp edges will go away in time - but my rope took a thrashing working out the start - it gets burly up top as well - 11b'ish seems right to me
3
Artsay said on October 24th, 2005
Tape up for this one. It'll eat up your hands real bad.
4
J-Rock said on October 25th, 2005
Yep, it bit me too!
5
flint said on May 29th, 2007
Jams on the start and a roof pull/slab finish, variety in the route makes for a great tough climb.
6
pigsteak said on July 22nd, 2007
jams? there are plenty of face holds for the non traddies like me...
7
Myke Dronez said on March 2nd, 2008
Beware of the trundling simian at the third bolt...
8
thurnauer said on May 26th, 2009
tough little roof at the beginning, kicked my butt for sure, but this route was really pretty cool overall.
9
lena_chita said on November 25th, 2012
I didn't think the start was hard, but getting over the little rooflet higher up was sketchy for me because I couldn't hang/clip the draw before making that move, and couldn't quite reach the good holds from good feet below the roof. Nevertheless, really fun.
10
Chiyram said on March 27th, 2016
Fun start, a little easier boulder problem then the one to the left of this. Helps if you can do a painful hand jam.