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Forearm Follies (to 2nd set of chains)

This route is located in the Gray's Branch Region at Military Wall

 Jungle Beat

21.
+0
0 votes

Another Doug Reed Route 5.10c (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Doug Reed, Porter Jarrard in 1991
Length: 60ft
Bolts: 5 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Scramble up to a ledge at the base of Jungle Beat to the start of this route.
Descent: Cold shuts
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: NFS
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.75 stars (106 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11a (108 votes)

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Submitted by: Raiden
Date: Mar 24th, 2015

Submitted by: ferris
Date: Jun 27th, 2013

Submitted by: Jeff
Date: Apr 13th, 2010

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 19th, 2005

Comments

23 comments {add your own comments}
1
SikMonkey said on January 16th, 2003
This route is great and it stays dry in a downpour. Trust me, I was climbing it in one.
2
ray said on April 13th, 2003
More like 5.10c.
3
benny said on September 22nd, 2003
I would agree with that rating.
4
benny said on September 22nd, 2003
I would agree with the 5.10c rating.
5
Meadows said on December 29th, 2003
This was my first 11 climb and it felt more like a 10-something to me too.
6
Roentgen Ray said on October 17th, 2004
Aesthetic route, do it for the view.
7
usccabum1985 said on November 11th, 2004
fun route, close to good bouldering
8
Anonymous said on March 2nd, 2005
11a at 2nd or 3rd bolt
9
Smedley said on May 10th, 2005
10+
10
young'n climber said on September 6th, 2005
Why is it still rated 11b in the new guidebook???
11
merrick said on June 2nd, 2006
if you cut right probably 10+ and if you go straight 11-. However, it is super fun, aesthetic, and some of the prettiest rock at military. great route!
12
Stewy911 said on September 19th, 2006
if you stay left you do not have to do as many moves compared to going right. But left is definately harder.
13
Josephine said on August 19th, 2007
awesome route and doesn't see a lot of traffic. worth doing for sure
14
Anonymous said on November 1st, 2007
pile
15
V10Mike said on April 26th, 2008
Choose your grade. Stay left or go right. Make it .11 or .10!
16
Brentucky said on October 6th, 2008
yep, up to the 3rd bolt is the hardest part, and i wouldn't want to fall clipping the 2nd or 3rd due to a swing potential into a big rock (not that bad though). 2nd bolt clipping hold is one of the smaller holds on the climb, but positive. 3rd bolt on the other hand has a nice jug to clip from if you move to it.
17
michaelarmand said on June 7th, 2009
Harder than 10c.....why the downgrade?
18
bcombs said on June 8th, 2009
You used the wrong beta.
19
Rollo said on January 30th, 2011
I did this thing both ways for comparison and either way it is a fun 10.
20
dnietosi said on May 2nd, 2011
I dont like cause you can cheat. Can someone put some tape in the holes that people is suposed to use.
21
Annea said on September 13th, 2011
It's all there if you go straight up & you won't pendulum like you would if you fell going right.
22
usmcmars said on November 3rd, 2017
One of the newer guidebooks has this still listed as 11b. It is much easier. 10c seems right. Super fun route for sure!
23
Spagel said on November 28th, 2017
Feels 10d/11a if you go straight up instead of out right. It's more fun that way too! Beautiful route. Looks kind of like the little sibling to Too Many Puppies.