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COVID-19 Climbing Closures: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - are closed. Please stay home and stay safe. See links above for more details about each climbing area.

Sundance

This route is located in the Lower Gorge Region at Pebble Beach

 Environmental Impact

13.
+2
2 votes

Central Scrutinizer 5.9 (Mixed) ****

First Ascent: Charles Tabor, Tom Fyffe in 1989
Length: 50ft
Bolts/Gear: 1/Stoppers and a Blue Alien for directly above the bolt (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Look for a piton in the middle of the less than vertical face capped by a huge roof. Climb the face to the piton then angle right to a bolt. Continue up the face taking advantage of bomber stopper placements along the way.
Descent: Rap anchors
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: NFS
Steepness:
runout (2) crimpy (1) classic (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.37 stars (70 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.9 (50 votes)

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Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Sep 26th, 2013

Submitted by: Wes
Date: Jun 25th, 2006

Comments

19 comments {add your own comments}
1
Wes said on January 21st, 2003
Don't let the R rating scare you away, you can get really good gear the whole way. Just bring some TCU's and two sets of stoppers.
2
Jerry Bargo said on March 8th, 2003
Wes is not leading you astray; it protects fine.
3
hamsco said on June 7th, 2003
the coolest stopper placements in the Red- water grooves rule
4
Power2U said on July 28th, 2003
Best route in the "Trash Compactor" protects just fine, slight run out between the bolt and the first piece of gear you can get.
5
Wicked Tribe said on September 6th, 2003
This route is the best 5.9 face route in the RRG.
6
J-Rock said on May 14th, 2004
One of the best 5.9 slabs anywhere! Great gear; crux is near the bolt.
7
ynot said on March 24th, 2007
The start gets wet when it rains but the rest stays dry.
8
B.J. said on March 28th, 2007
Fantastic route! Bomber stopper placements for sure. Very fun.
9
Josephine said on June 17th, 2007
very fun slab. nice and balancey.
10
pigsteak said on July 6th, 2008
wow. beautiful line.
11
redwards said on September 23rd, 2008
Stellar route - the best 5.9 at the Red I've encountered so far.
12
jrathfon said on November 16th, 2009
REALLY fun. dance all over that slab, if you have the nerves extend both the pin and the bolt with shoulder lengths and your rope will run great. if you need it a tiny cam will backup the pin. this route EATS gear, the aRRRRRR must have been before tiny cams, cause the only "run out" i had was like 7ft to the anchors above a BOMBER nut. definitely bring nuts, tiny c3's or aliens work great as well.
13
Dmack said on October 11th, 2011
AMAZING!!!
14
tpowell said on November 3rd, 2012
You're going to want some small gear (.3s and maybe a .4) and then oodles of stoppers.
15
Anonymous said on November 3rd, 2012
double stoppers? it's 50 ft., how much gear do you need??
16
campby said on January 21st, 2015
Not R. Maybe PG for the simple fact that all you get is micro cams and the bolt for the first 25 ft. Past that, it's bomber nuts all the way. However, definitely bring your itty bitty cams for butt puckering prevention down low.
17
Catawaba said on May 4th, 2015
Don't know why you would need double nuts other than the fact your missing your natural ones, a few small mets and a set of nuts sews it up nicely
18
MurphMan said on April 10th, 2017
Definitely some pucker factor if you suck at placing nuts like me!
19
wsimek said on May 24th, 2018
The piton was rusted 3/4 of the way through and broke off with minimal force applied. Will buy a replacement if desired/coincides with FS regulations.