Mercenary of the Mandarin Chicken

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Practice Wall

Smear Tactics


19.
+0
0 votes

Beta Spewer 5.10b (Sport) **

First Ascent: Jared Hancock, Karla Carandang, Skip Wolfe, Mark Ryan in 2005
Length: 20ft
Bolts: 2 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Around the corner to the right is this short overhanging face. The climbing is good and better than it looks. If only it were taller.
Moves: Crimps or Edges
Descent: 2 bolt anchor
Stays Dry: Stays dry
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:
bouldery (1) pumpy (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

3.48 stars (79 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10b (68 votes)

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Submitted by: djsky24
Date: Jul 17th, 2012

Submitted by: SCIN
Date: Jan 31st, 2010

Submitted by: lafinca
Date: Apr 29th, 2009

Comments

1
J-Rock said on September 8th, 2005
Fun climbing, but it ends way too soon!
2
Yasmeen said on March 12th, 2006
Flows really well-- fun sequence!
3
bryanboonern said on July 3rd, 2006
VERY FUN! The moves are 10c. The length may be why it gets 10b. You can easily stick clip the second bolt if you want to give it a go and this is at or above your limit. Would be a good one to project.
4
bazoqop said on July 9th, 2006
If highballing wasn't a no-no at Muir you could do this with a couple of pads and a good spotter or two. Almost like a easy-moderate boulder problem. Way fun.
5
dbarless said on October 3rd, 2007
too bad it ends so soon!!! it flows well, the moves are nice, a good climb...pity it's so short...
6
merrick said on October 15th, 2007
Think v1 not 10b with a couple clips along the way. it will feel easier then. super fun and it is great to get some steeper climbing in after all the slabilicious routes.
7
The Dude of Life said on November 15th, 2007
Super fun with nice flowing moves. Good route.
8
Buster said on January 11th, 2008
I wonder if you pile Jared Hancock, Karla Carandang, Skip Wolfe, and Mark Ryan on each other's shoulders, could they tag the anchor? Oops... I mean great route, nice flow, awesome job!
9
ashtray said on January 12th, 2008
Buster, by this standard how many bolts would that 35 foot boulder problem "the doug reed toprope" at the Bald have? Remember, we used to huck laps on it and it is only V5ish, but now i am not so sure. one of those holds could break, and golly gee that is a long way up.
10
jordancolburn said on January 13th, 2008
Good one to break in to mid 10 leading on, easy falls, not likely to deck or fall and hurt yourself on the wall.
11
tomdarch said on March 6th, 2008
Fun stuff!
12
Anonymous said on April 4th, 2008
real crap
13
uberwhipper said on May 15th, 2008
Everybody says the climb kinda flows, but it felt all wrong to me. Must be why I had to try it 5 times
14
waddle77 said on July 21st, 2008
A lot of fun. Way too short.
15
anticlmber said on May 16th, 2013
not too shabby.
16
Mdjagg said on December 11th, 2017
If you like boulder problems, this is a great route. Sustained v4-5 climbing with several long and strong moves. Once you find the right holds, they are all positive. Worth visiting practice wall just for this quick route. 4 stars in my book
17
Anonymous said on December 11th, 2017
V4-5 LOLLLLLL!!!!
18
Anonymous said on December 11th, 2017
usually when someone comments on a route and there's an anonymous comment right after the anon comment is something mean. so i clicked to see how mean it would be - prepared to defend the original poster. but, wow, V4-5, hahaha. you're either trolling or you are unacquainted with what V4 feels like.
19
Anonymous said on December 11th, 2017
First rock climb outdoors? Glad you enjoyed it. Sustained v4-5 climbing is closer to 5.13. There isn't a single 5.10 or 5.11 in the red that has one v4 move.
20
Anonymous said on December 11th, 2017
i think that's a bit of an overstatement. there are plenty of hard 11s with cruxes that are close to V4. i would say, for instance, that if you climbed bababooey (RRG 11c) like a highball (up to the ledge), it's harder than jedi mind tricks. other 11c's with cruxes that would be a contender for V4: count dooku, flying monkeys, limbic system, relaxed atmosphere (and third world lover), sam’s boy toy, scarlet scorchdropper, stirrin’ the grits. they'd probably be soft V4, but they're not that far off. and i don't even know what "a single move of V4" means. do all the opening moves of ironman traverse count? 'cause there are like 7 easy moves before you get to the crux. or what about the first 10 moves of art of the vogi that are like RRG 11a? also, i can assure you, the start of immaculate deception is at least V4 if you're under a certain height.
21
Rx2Climb said on December 12th, 2017
Many, many 5.11s with at least V4 moves on them. Crux of Dave the Dude, start of Scissors, the start of Dude Abides might even be V4, just to name a few. Beta Spewer, however, most certainly does not have any V4, or even V3 moves on it.
22
Rx2Climb said on December 12th, 2017
My Name is Earl might even be V5/6.
23
Anonymous said on December 12th, 2017
None of those even approach "V4"... perhaps you are just accustomed to fluffed-up soft grades in your local gym. https://www.mec.ca/en/explore/climbing-grade-conversion
24
Anonymous said on December 12th, 2017
I agree with the last anon. My name is Earl is the only route listed that could be close to v4. The rest, no way. You need to do more bouldering outside.
25
climb2core said on December 12th, 2017
Haven't done Flying Monkeys for 17 years.. but pretty sure that approaches V4. Never been on Dave the Dude, but lots of solid 12 climbers don't do the crux on that first. go. And I'd say sustained V4/5 would be harder than 13a. More like closer to 5.14 if it's long enough.
26
DrRockso said on December 12th, 2017
This route now has more comments than feet it is long. Not bad for a route you can walk around to the top of :P. People should do the second pitch to this one, quite fun. Bring a stick clip.
27
Sandymalone88 said on December 12th, 2017
Actually, I know some solid 5.14 climbers who got shut down on this.
28
Mdjagg said on December 12th, 2017
Sorry for the unqualified judgement of difficulty. I have almost zero experience with outdoor bouldering grades, so I based it on my experience from the gym. This felt, to me, in 35 degree weather, three days ago, out of the sun, in the wind, as a modest beginner, looking for fun climbs, who has some 10b-c leading experience, and not the weakest or strongest climber, to be an awesome and strong sustained 10b-c route. If you're fresh and you climb hard, you'd breeze up this. If you're like me, you'll try it 3 or 4 times and be grunting up the whole way, and having fun with the long strong moves. Also, it was decided after our climb that with perfect beta, this would get much easier. Sorry, didn't know I needed to qualify every detail of my experience when posting.
29
Anonymous said on December 12th, 2017
The crux on this route is V1 at hardest.
30
Andrew said on December 12th, 2017
I am just going to ask it because everyone wants to know... What gym do you climb at?
31
Anonymous said on December 13th, 2017
to the two anons claiming i think moves on RRG 11s can be V4 because i don't boulder outside: i specifically mentioned three outside V4s. i would agree with you that they probably aren't comparable to squamish V4s, but definitely to bishop or LRC V4s (on average - there's a ton of variation even at a single destination). to add to the list above: the crux moves on sam's boy toy were waaayyy harder than dragon lady for me. have you done sam's boy toy? i bet not. hell, i think the moves on count dooku are harder than serengeti.
32
Anonymous said on December 13th, 2017
I've climbed Sam's boy toy and dragon lady and definitely disagree. Completely different styles. V2 max. Maybe you just suck at climbing routes?
33
Andrew said on December 13th, 2017
I have climbed both also, and Sam's crux is no harder than V2. I think there are two problems going on. 1. Some people really don't know V grades well and have a lack of experience on outdoor boulders. 2. Some people calculate the difficulty of the the climbing before the crux into the difficulty of the crux. Just because crux feels V4 because you are tired/pumped moving into it, doesn't mean its V4 by its self. I have seen/heard people over evaluate difficulty of cruxes so many times. Anyway, I still want to know what gym this dude climbs at that makes him think moves on this are V4.
34
Anonymous said on December 13th, 2017
Don't worry Mdjagg, we were all gumbies at one point. I suppose an internet forum is as good a place as any to get put in your place a little, don't take it too hard. But in the future, do yourself and the rest of us a favor and don't go around spraying or talking dumb beta at the crag. Loud climbing nerds are annoying. Often times, the quiet humble ones at the crag are the veterans and the loud obnoxious ones are new to the game and looking for attention.
35
Anonymous said on December 13th, 2017
haha, the moves on sam's boy toy are right after a ledge! i'm not factoring in pump - there is no pump. if you don't like the comparison to dragon lady, what about birthday direct - one of bishop's most commonly climbed V3s. sam's boy toy is def harder. it's also similar to king tut and funky tut (both of which i flashed, and it took me 5-6 tries to figure out the crux on sam's boy toy). these arguments are dumb though. we'll just have to agree to disagree. the insinuation that i lack experience or suck at climbing routes (relative to my bouldering ability) is wrong. i mean i suck at climbing generally, but i'm a way better sport climber than i am a boulderer (though i'm awful at both).
36
Rx2Climb said on December 14th, 2017
I boulder outside quite a bit. The cruxes of the routes I name earlier could easily be V4 in southern boulder fields not name Horse Pens 40.
37
Anonymous said on December 14th, 2017
A lot of decent boulderers just start putting out and climbing like tards as soon as they tie into a rope and get more than six feet of the deck
38
Anonymous said on December 14th, 2017
*putzing out lol
39
Anonymous said on December 14th, 2017
Rx2Climb you say the gumbiest shit, lol
40
Cocoapuffs1000 said on December 14th, 2017
It's really easy to over estimate the difficulty of moves when you're on a rope, especially at the Red where routes tend to be more sustained than bouldery. For me, an honest V5-6 feels like about V15 if carrying even a little bit of pump. Plus, on a rope you get fewer opportunities to work out the moves and less time to rest between attempts (unless you have a very patient belayer).
41
climbhigh said on December 14th, 2017
Was hoping for some fun shit talking at least. Id like a refund on the 10 minutes of my life I just lost by reading about a 20 foot route. Fuckign millennials
42
Anonymous said on December 15th, 2017
you dipshits are so easily trolled, when someone rubs your ego w/ stupid sauce. Please tell us more about moves getting harder when your pumped ... at the Red no less?? Really? you mean this 5.10 doesn't really have V4 moves on it? wtf... Are you boring knobs not getting enough attention over on Mountain Project I know it must be kinda hard to sick out when you're just another beta spewing fornicator of goats isn't it?
43
Anonymous said on December 16th, 2017
"fornicator of goats"?....Leave Climbhigh's mom out of this!
44
Anonymous said on December 17th, 2017
i was climbing in the red before most of you even thought about fornicating goats. i was fornicating with goats before the Verm scale left Hueco, and the Verm scale was screwing goats before that. so yeah, Ray banned me.
45
climbhigh said on December 18th, 2017
my mom prefers horses, get it right asshat