COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.

Dragon's Mouth

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Practice Wall

Crescendo


4.
+1
1 votes

Crescent Moon 5.10a (Sport) **

First Ascent: J.J., Mark Ryan, Skip Wolfe, Jared Hancock in 2005
Length: 35ft
Bolts: 3 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Next sport route ~15 feet right of the "Dragon's Mouth" chimney that ascends the featured face on good edges and pockets with a few reachy moves. The difficulty may vary depending on which way you go at the 2nd bolt.
Moves: Crimps or Edges
Descent: 2 bolt anchor with quicklinks under roof
Stays Dry: Stays dry
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:
confusing (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

2.14 stars (49 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10a (56 votes)

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Comments

1
p0bray01 said on July 11th, 2006
Kinda Thought this route was a little harder than 5.9...was real reachy...could be even harder for the shorter climber.
2
One-Fall said on August 11th, 2006
I felt this was harder than 5.9 too. Unless I blew the beta, you had to use a few small holds and some not very positive ones.
3
usmcmars said on June 9th, 2007
I also thought it was harder than a 5.9. I fell several times on lead trying to reach for a left side pull near the top. It wasn't until I ignored the obvious and went right that I was able to finish........just as the thunder and lightening hit.
4
caribe said on August 9th, 2007
My daughter and I thought is was a bit harder than 5.9. It is a bit tricky, but do it once and it is a no-brainer from then on. I don't think shorter has much to do with it though. There is one hold that you have to hit providentially, then move on up without pausing.
5
Buzz said on April 6th, 2008
Short unenjoyable route
6
cliftongifford said on April 27th, 2009
Unless I was completely missing something this route is definitely in the 10c range.
7
ahab said on April 27th, 2009
you were completely missing something.
8
Anonymous said on July 23rd, 2009
Cliftongifford needs to git wit it!
9
ece_ssg said on August 3rd, 2009
tricky 9.
10
michaelarmand said on September 20th, 2009
I need to git wit it too.....the crux on this climb is hard....grunt, reach, crimp, high step, undercling, throw.....all while hoping a dozen college girls don't laugh at you when you take a flailing whip on this "beginner" climb.
11
Redpoint said on October 21st, 2014
I finally found out how to climb this so it wasn't an 11a move. All of that bouldering development payed off because I am way better at finding holds now, and that seamed to be what I lacked every time I climbed this.
12
Rollo said on May 27th, 2015
5.10a+