Dragon's Mouth

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Practice Wall

Crescendo


4.
+1
1 votes

Crescent Moon 5.10a (Sport) **

First Ascent: J.J., Mark Ryan, Skip Wolfe, Jared Hancock in 2005
Length: 35ft
Bolts: 3 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Next sport route ~15 feet right of the "Dragon's Mouth" chimney that ascends the featured face on good edges and pockets with a few reachy moves. The difficulty may vary depending on which way you go at the 2nd bolt.
Moves: Crimps or Edges
Descent: 2 bolt anchor with quicklinks under roof
Stays Dry: Stays dry
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:
confusing (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

2.15 stars (47 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10a (54 votes)

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Comments

1
p0bray01 said on July 11th, 2006
Kinda Thought this route was a little harder than 5.9...was real reachy...could be even harder for the shorter climber.
2
One-Fall said on August 11th, 2006
I felt this was harder than 5.9 too. Unless I blew the beta, you had to use a few small holds and some not very positive ones.
3
usmcmars said on June 9th, 2007
I also thought it was harder than a 5.9. I fell several times on lead trying to reach for a left side pull near the top. It wasn't until I ignored the obvious and went right that I was able to finish........just as the thunder and lightening hit.
4
caribe said on August 9th, 2007
My daughter and I thought is was a bit harder than 5.9. It is a bit tricky, but do it once and it is a no-brainer from then on. I don't think shorter has much to do with it though. There is one hold that you have to hit providentially, then move on up without pausing.
5
Buzz said on April 6th, 2008
Short unenjoyable route
6
cliftongifford said on April 27th, 2009
Unless I was completely missing something this route is definitely in the 10c range.
7
ahab said on April 27th, 2009
you were completely missing something.
8
Anonymous said on July 23rd, 2009
Cliftongifford needs to git wit it!
9
ece_ssg said on August 3rd, 2009
tricky 9.
10
michaelarmand said on September 20th, 2009
I need to git wit it too.....the crux on this climb is hard....grunt, reach, crimp, high step, undercling, throw.....all while hoping a dozen college girls don't laugh at you when you take a flailing whip on this "beginner" climb.
11
Redpoint said on October 21st, 2014
I finally found out how to climb this so it wasn't an 11a move. All of that bouldering development payed off because I am way better at finding holds now, and that seamed to be what I lacked every time I climbed this.
12
Rollo said on May 27th, 2015
5.10a+