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Central Scrutinizer

This route is located in the Lower Gorge Region at Pebble Beach

 Straightedge

14.
+0
0 votes

Environmental Impact 5.7 (Trad) ***

First Ascent: Charles Tabor, Jeff Wilburn in 1987
Length: 130ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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This route ascends the handcrack in the left-facing dihedral on the right side of the less than vertical face capped by a huge roof. 2 pitches
Moves: Hands
Descent: Rap from tree-double ropes required
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: NFS
Steepness:
dihedral (1) hands (1) fun (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

3.92 stars (96 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.7 (69 votes)

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Submitted by: strawmyers
Date: Oct 30th, 2018

Submitted by: p0bray01
Date: Mar 28th, 2007

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 19th, 2005

Comments

26 comments {add your own comments}
1
Steve said on January 13th, 2003
I like to lob in a hex on this route, I'm not very good at placing hexes.
2
Joel said on October 21st, 2003
You can rap down from the tree-slings at the top of the second pitch using a single 60m rope.
3
Jerry Bargo said on December 14th, 2004
Hand jams all the way up the first pitch, if you so choose - and all but one is bomber. Most parties skip the second pitch but I think it is worth doing at least once. I remember thinking that the second pitch was about 5.5, not runout at all, but had serious rope-drag potential if you don't think ahead.
4
Anonymous said on March 17th, 2005
there's bolted anchors at the top of the first pitch
5
Ascentionist said on November 29th, 2005
Must do for the 5.7 crack climber. Hope you have small hands at the crux.
6
p0bray01 said on November 25th, 2006
Wow What a route...toughie...I thought it was harder than 5.7 bit then again my crack climbing skills are far from being desirable. Good luck to all and Yes small hands at the crux would help a lot. Make sure you bring 3, #1 camalots, it seemed like all I used were .75's and 1's.
7
p0bray01 said on December 29th, 2006
by the way...is thing really 130 feet? It did not seem that long.....
8
B.J. said on March 28th, 2007
I'm with p0bray01. I thought this was harder than a 7 (especially compared to Roadside Attraction), but that's because my crack technique sucks donkey balls.
9
chh said on March 28th, 2007
Do the second pitch. It's cool, but will be harder/goofier for a shorter person. Protects well.
10
p0bray01 said on April 7th, 2007
LOL Climbed this route again today because...uhhh I thought I had gotten better as a climber...yep still spanks my ass every time...maybe a different spot...but damn. Well Keeps making you get better. Great route! I think I am gonna try the second pitch as well...any beta?
11
B.J. said on June 8th, 2007
I want to go back and do this one again as well. I also want to do the second pitch as suggested. As for this being a hand crack, well, I thought a good deal of it was tight hands which is probably why it felt a bit harder than a 7.
12
Josephine said on June 17th, 2007
it fit my hands PERFECTLY. don't know what you boys are complaining about ;-) i thought this was extreamly good for practicing my beginning hand jam skills.
13
B.J. said on August 14th, 2007
After sanding and filing down my hands, I can now confidently say that this is a PERFECT 5.7 hand crack.
14
endercore said on September 30th, 2007
this is the crack dreams are made of. its just one perfect hand jam after the other... just get in a rhythm and go with it, you'll be at the top before you know it.
15
Like This said on November 13th, 2007
This is the kind of crack that makes you fall in love with climbing all over again! It's just flat-out amazing. enough said.
16
jaseym01 said on July 27th, 2008
Whatever the book or anyone else tells you, don't try to walk off the top of this route. Did it today and spent 45 minutes bushwhacking/rappelling when two ropes would have gotten us down in 5 minutes. Conclusion, good route, bad walk off.
17
Anonymous said on February 22nd, 2009
great climb i give it a 5.7+ climbed it yesterday and found a prize along the way
18
Anonymous said on February 24th, 2009
Super awesome hand crack. Fit my hands and feet perfectly. Wish I had brought one bigger piece for the top so I would have had to run it out a little bit. Probably my favorite trad line in the red so far (haven't climbed all that many though). Guy I was climbing with said he thought it felt like an 8 which makes me pretty psyched that I sent it. must have just fit my hands really well
19
Ascentionist said on March 3rd, 2009
Its definietly hand size dependant. If your crack skills suck then this'll be harder. If your crack skills are good but you got fat hands then it'll be harder. Regardless, its a good 5.7 to learn crack skills because there isn't much face climbing to this one.
20
kman154 said on March 22nd, 2009
I thought this route was really cool. it was my first trad leat.
21
kman154 said on March 22nd, 2009
I ment to spell lead. It was my first trad lead.
22
AdSprad said on March 23rd, 2009
This was a very enjoyable climb. I was able to really practice my side pull technique, but you can also straight up climb the crack.
23
jrathfon said on November 16th, 2009
really fun, jams or laybacks, jams are much easier in a lot of spots. eats red camalots.
24
gritstone said on October 15th, 2013
Had to laugh at p0bray01 comment. I feel the same way...it brings me back to earth with a bump! However, this is a great route to learn the art of jamming.
25
PatrickBecerra said on October 28th, 2014
This guy eats up #1 Camalots. Watch out near the middle for the pebble band running in the crack, the width there is perfect but that shit is painful.......
26
Smiles said on July 16th, 2017
I've done the lower pitch so many times and then read that there is a second pitch, so I did it today. It's great, the roof move is nice, do it, if you don't you haven't done the route.