Family Tradition

This route is located in the Southern Region at Volunteer Wall

Anger Management


10.
+0
0 votes

Tong Shing 5.10d (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Andy Pense, Sam Watson, J.J., Jared Hancock in 2005
Length: 55ft
Bolts: 6 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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RIght of Family Tradition is this featured face with some grooves near the top. Begin on two crimps just left of a stump, below and right of the first bolt to avoid the rotten rock below and to the left of the bolt line. Pull up to a pinch and then move on to the first bolt. Clip and climb on past the first bolt and left of the bolt line to the anchors.
Descent: 2 bolt anchor with quicklinks
Stays Dry:
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.58 stars (52 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10d (45 votes)

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Comments

1
Artsay said on October 2nd, 2005
Very fun route! The anchors may need to be changed, though. We just lead and lowered and our rope was kinked and knotted up so bad it took at least 10 minutes to fix. Beware...
2
J-Rock said on November 29th, 2005
All I had with me at the time were some quicklinks. I was told that chains would be added to the anchors when the volunteers for JACD bolted them. If this has not been done then just let me know and I'll return with some chains.
3
dlewis101 said on July 31st, 2006
I just climbed this route and the anchors seemed fine with me. It now has rap rings a the anchors (I think).
4
Don McGlone said on October 1st, 2007
What a cool route - some of the holds felt like they where straight from the Nicros factory.
5
jlu said on December 28th, 2007
great route, very solid holds. the anchors are like a showerhead if it's raining.
6
Meadows said on April 22nd, 2008
This is a spectacular route, but probably not easy for someone climbing at their level for this grade.
7
Gregory said on September 22nd, 2008
Awesome route!
8
Don McGlone said on November 3rd, 2008
Put a second set of quiklinks on today.
9
anticlmber said on November 10th, 2008
so good, so fun.
10
mike_anderson said on April 27th, 2009
Glad to see people like this route. I felt like every hold was facing the wrong way and, try as I might, the moves just didn't flow at all. There's nothing specifically wrong with this route, but I just didn't have fun climbing it.
11
Brentucky said on July 20th, 2009
I felt like I was toast the whole way up this thing, well, starting at the second bolt anyway.
12
ahab said on July 20th, 2009
this & normalised b. are the best tens on the wall.
13
ryguy said on February 8th, 2012
I was at volunteer on the 28th of January and there was some red webbing dangling from the second bolt, we skipped climbing it due to the unsure nature of the route...anyone know whats up with it?
14
Cromper said on April 2nd, 2012
Excellent route! Best on the left side of volunteer wall in my opinion.
15
dnietosi said on April 23rd, 2012
Not so great.
16
EricDorsey said on June 20th, 2012
seemed like a tough second clip. Rather than clip I jumped off and kicked my belayer in the face.
17
Cromper said on June 20th, 2012
Sounds like Eric Dorsey went full rocktard.
18
whoneedsfeet said on June 20th, 2012
Rocktarding at its finest
19
EricDorsey said on June 20th, 2012
Keep it up and yer face is next.
20
kevlar said on November 18th, 2012
Really enjoyed the climb! Had a fun variety of holds and jams. I wanted to give a heads up that there was a decent sized loose rock. It was twice the size of a toaster and moved significantly when I pulled on it. It looked like someone tried to draw an X on it, but I couldn't see that until I pulled it.