All That Quivers

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Gallery

The King Lives On...


20.
+0
0 votes

Happy trails 5.10d (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Terry Kindred in 2005
Length: 75ft
Bolts: 9 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Walk right from The Tribute and down a steep gully. Cross the gully and continue for a few hundred feet until you reach an iron cable extending from the top of a cliff to the ground. Step over the cable and walk about 50 feet further to locate the next bolted line left of a rounded corner. Climb past a low overhang on fragile rock to start. Pump up the face past many eyebrow-like holds and feet that disappear when you get above them.
Moves: Slopers
Descent: Rap Rings
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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3.51 stars (100 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10d (107 votes)

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Submitted by: caribe
Date: Dec 21st, 2006

Comments

1
J-Rock said on August 8th, 2005
Is this the route that Tim started bolting at last year's bolting clinic? Also, why is it listed between "The King Lives On" and "Johnny B Good"?
2
Wes said on August 8th, 2005
Nope this is the one Terry bolted at this years trail day. I need to fix the order, or maybe we need to re-number this section of cliff.
3
J-Rock said on August 9th, 2005
Yeah, it is the same one. It should be listed to the left of "The King Lives On..." That's cool though. I'll fix it on the online guide. Well, last year Tim placed anchors on it and we both top-roped it with plans to return to it later. Anyway, I'm glad that it finally got done. It felt like about 11a at the time (that was before it was cleaned and tick-marked though). Definitely a fun route with some cool moves. That was nice of Terry to finish it. I was just trying to keep the information accurate, that's all.
4
Sunshine said on September 27th, 2005
Do this route.
5
ray said on October 16th, 2005
Reminds me of Dough Belly at Oil Crack (without the drilled pockets of course!).
6
Artsay said on October 16th, 2005
Very fun and technical. Terry, how do you keep finding these routes?!?!?!
7
Anonymous said on October 17th, 2005
T Powers found it and put in the anchors in 2004.
8
Sunshine said on October 17th, 2005
I just follow Tim around and wait for him install anchors. Then, in a year or two if no other bolts sprout from the climb, I install my very own bolts.
9
C'est Si Bon said on October 21st, 2005
This is the worst route I have ever been on!!!! And I am corroborated by more than a few people.
10
climbhigh said on December 2nd, 2005
I thought it was great route. Hard for 10b.
11
merrick said on December 2nd, 2005
challenging yet interesting route. felt way hard to me. where do all the feet go??
12
Don McGlone said on May 1st, 2006
Very Cool! Sustained climbing that just keeps going.
13
caribe said on December 20th, 2006
I think it is a 5.10c. It is a bit difficult, but there are strategic places at which one can get off the hands to look and think. If you take a wide stance just under the top iron you can finish the route totally off your hands, which is nice.
14
charlie said on March 30th, 2007
I cannot believe how good this route is. Be careful though, you may have to actually think through some of the moves!
15
dbrayack said on September 4th, 2007
Definitely a good route!
16
alfredo said on October 16th, 2007
The most sustained climb on the wall. Really makes you think. Trust your feet!
17
Saxman said on October 18th, 2007
Great route but it is no 10b. Don't even think about doing this route if it has rained recently.
18
jlu said on November 21st, 2007
My favorite climb on this section! No way it's a 5.10b, closer to d and makes you think
19
Lateralus said on December 13th, 2007
route is .11a at least
20
Jeff said on December 17th, 2007
If you read the route description where it says "past many eyebrow-like holds and feet that disappear when you get above them", and pay attention to where these are while climbing, it will be easier. Still agree it's a bit harder than 10.b
21
Buster said on December 17th, 2007
Is that RRG (YDS) 10b or Muir Valley 10b?
22
pigsteak said on December 17th, 2007
well, if everyone on here says it is hard for the grade, then it must be Muir ratings. but how would buster know, he has never been to Muir but slags at every chance.
23
Paul3eb said on December 17th, 2007
hard to believe it was almost two and a half years ago that i saw terry and wes bolting this one. i think terry would smile at the thought of it being sand-bagged but still swear up and down that it's 10b ;)
24
charlie said on December 18th, 2007
I onsighted it, off the couch, and my limit is 10b.
25
bcombs said on December 18th, 2007
I was consistently onsighting 10c / d when I first climbed this a year or two ago. I fell twice on that one burn and never went back. But, then again, I'm fat.
26
pawilkes said on December 26th, 2007
i think its hilarious how much discussion there is about this route. i was told by a friend that it was not worth getting on but warmed up on it anyway b/c everything else was busy. I thought it was a GREAT route, I remember talking to Wes and Terry when they were bolting it at the first JA trailday. the route makes you think which is not always the case in the red. i think experienced climbers agree with the rating b/c they can read routes well while less experienced climbers can't read routes as well and get booted off.
27
JR said on December 27th, 2007
Great pawilkes you have sent routes nearly 2 whole grades harder than this route. Nice of you to stroke yourself with all the "I am experienced, I can read routes" crap. Why not let people that climb at this level hash out the letter grade?
28
mcrib said on December 28th, 2007
but as long as you got a laugh all is well in the world. let people have their own opinions and maybe they'll listen to yours
29
Rollo said on April 27th, 2008
I onsighted three other tens right next to this thing and found this one kicking my butt. I would say it's an 11 since it feels like most other 11's I've flailed on and not sent. Cool and unusual type of climb though.
30
Gregory said on August 18th, 2008
"It was easy for the grade."
31
rhunt said on September 23rd, 2008
One of my last interactions with Terry was right after he and Wes bolted this line. Terry was generous as usual and offered me the FA...lol I blew it and fell. Just got on it again (on top rope) last weekend 9/21/08 - one of the best 10's at the red! Your opinion of the grade will depend on the quality of your footwork.
32
Brentucky said on October 20th, 2008
my footwork is badass, but this thing has about eight 10b crux moves in a row which i am not so badass at. not pumpy, but very thoughtful and fun. you'll be too scared to fall... if you're lucky! :-)
33
Scaife said on October 27th, 2008
10b when dry 11a when damp. We need to scrub the dirt out of the sloppy pockets, so they don't turn to mud when it's wet!
34
whatahutch said on November 2nd, 2008
Pile of poo.
35
jenbongo said on March 9th, 2009
Just because you can't onsite it doesn't mean it's not a .10b. This route does take a bit of thought. Once I figured out where to put my feet, the moves weren't especially hard. However, due to the sustained nature of the route, I do agree it's more like a .10c or .10d.
36
bcombs said on March 9th, 2009
a.k.a Jerry's Project (No not that kind of Jerry :-))
37
thurnauer said on May 26th, 2009
very cool and diverse route that was more than I was ready for as a warmup. looking forward to getting on it again.
38
DuppyC said on June 8th, 2009
Favorite route on this wall, hardest of the .10's in the area.
39
Anonymous said on October 11th, 2009
more demanding than the two ~'10c' and the 11a nearby. 10b, visualize the sequences.
40
gripster said on October 21st, 2009
i climbed this route. it looked dry but was not, scary when wet! it's 10b, but some of the best hold are hard to notice.
41
tania said on October 22nd, 2009
Thanks for bolting this route Terry and Wes, it's one of my absolute favorites in teh Red....imagine if this route was over-hanging about ten degrees??? Can you say SICK!!!!!!!
42
Cromper said on August 1st, 2011
Great Climb! Loved the sequential finger locks in the middle.
43
climb2core said on May 20th, 2013
If you are 10 climber that spends most of your time in the Red, this will feel hard. It seemed like the longest 75 feet ever with a puzzle almost between every bolt.
44
anticlmber said on June 9th, 2013
Phenomenal!!
45
halg said on June 24th, 2014
this route is awesome from the third bolt to the top.
46
craig.smith1 said on September 25th, 2014
5 star route
47
eduard said on October 5th, 2015
Really fun after the rain and basically no chalk.
48
DrRockso said on April 18th, 2017
All the right holds in all the right places. Fantastic.
49
Tunica Intima said on November 11th, 2018
This is a really nice line! Very cool holds and movement!