Dirty Old Men

This route is located in the Muir Valley at The Sanctuary

Blue Collar


14.
+0
0 votes

Cruxifixion 5.12d (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Jared Hancock in 2006
Length: 90ft
Bolts: 9 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This is the long and aesthetic vertical orange face right of Dirty Old Men. Begin with a difficult boulder problem then mellow out on 5.12b to the chains.
Moves: Bouldery or Technical
Descent: 2 bolt anchor with quicklinks
Stays Dry:
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

2.5 stars (2 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12 (2 votes)

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Comments

1
ninesixfour said on September 27th, 2005
Looks awesome. Who bolted this?
2
J-Rock said on September 28th, 2005
I bolted that route this summer, but it still needs some more cleaning and 1 or 2 more bolts. I've done all of the moves, but not in one go... yet. I don't know about the grade (probably somewhere in the 5.12c-5.13a range). The start is freaking hard. I'm looking foward to getting back to work on it soon.
3
J-Rock said on January 6th, 2006
This climb is probably only 5.12a/b once you get past the first bolt. Very bouldery start getting off of the ground. Powerful, technical, and fun.
4
pigsteak said on November 1st, 2006
did you send jrock? nice job if you did..this thing looks cool.
5
J-Rock said on November 2nd, 2006
Yep, somebody needs to get on it to confirm the grade. I don't know if Pigsteak would consider it a send though because I stick-clipped the first bolt (crux). Shame on me, but I didn't want to fall off of the ledge either. We hammered off one of the better holds above the start (you can see the scar in the photo) because it looked like it was going to break off eventually. It is a much better crux now. If you traverse into the first bolt then the route is only 5.12a/b. The direct start is the business part. This would probably be a difficult route to onsight.
6
pigsteak said on November 7th, 2006
simon says..you get the send, but only if you put pigsteak on the FA as well.
7
JR said on April 30th, 2012
This route is very good. In the 12b/c range. Not sure where the v6 start is. No real reason to try to make this route harder than it is. Great moves on crimps and pockets.