Four Shower Tokens, A Guiness and My Girl

This route is located in the Southern Region at Volunteer Wall

First Time


20.
+0
0 votes

Normalised Bramapithecus 5.10d (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Unknown
Length: 65ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This route ascends the slightly overhanging face just right of the previous trad line. Reach high for the start holds then surmount a roof to gain the face.
Equipped by Norma Froelich and Bram Bell.
Stays Dry:
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

4.12 stars (49 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10d (48 votes)

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Submitted by: tim.fraser
Date: Oct 11th, 2012

Submitted by: ahab
Date: Aug 14th, 2008

Submitted by: ahab
Date: Aug 14th, 2008

Comments

1
Sunshine said on October 3rd, 2005
If this is the one I think it is, I did it the weekend after it was bolted. I tried to on-sight it but it was to dirty. I did a bolt to bolt and cleaned it enough to send it. The start is the rating. Super fun. 5.10 something.
2
Pete said on October 3rd, 2005
i think that this is the route that norma and bram bolted... but am not sure of other details/name...
3
Sunshine said on October 3rd, 2005
I think you are correct Pete. But we must be absolutely sure. Someone could get hurt.
4
corduroy said on October 10th, 2005
nice find - fun moves in the middle - fight the pump
5
corduroy said on December 5th, 2005
name?grade?FA?
6
Sco Bro said on April 10th, 2006
Cool campus start. Just say no to the cheater stones. Watch out clipping the anchors, Stewy pulled off a hand hold that was bigger than a fist. Probably not the only ticking time bomb. Fun, fun climb.
7
ray said on March 25th, 2007
I think this is one of the best routes of its grade. Long and pumpy. Excellent stone. Interesting holds. It doesn't get much better than this.
8
powell.se said on May 29th, 2007
Great route, a few letters easier than 10d. Cruxy start with the roof, then lots of jugs to the top (gets easier as you go). I started from the left around the corner on the arete then to the roof at the 1st bolt. If you want to make it 10d start directly below the 1st bolt.
9
Saxman said on June 20th, 2007
Am I the only one who thinks that comment makes absolutely no sense? Why even bother if you are going to contradict yourself in two sentences?
10
Josephine said on June 25th, 2007
hard start!!! if you can campus you'll do fine. if you're a weekling like me - good luck!
11
caribe said on March 14th, 2008
In the upper 5% in quality at this grade!!
12
anticlmber said on March 21st, 2008
nice route. superb!
13
Brentucky said on December 31st, 2008
i thought this climb had a couple "tough" moves on it and not just the campus start, but nice jugs pretty much all the way up to recover on. good line fo sho
14
Anonymous said on March 29th, 2010
This was my first 10d, and I had a blast! The line had a great variety of holds and was a really enjoyable route to push myself on.
15
dustonian said on May 13th, 2010
nice route Bram! This was one of the only dry (non-condensated) routes around today... the rock is super clean with fun moves.
16
ynp1 said on November 25th, 2010
This is a great route! I think it is the best of its grade in the Red!
17
kurtnorv said on March 20th, 2012
dont let all the previous comments fool you its not as good as they lead to believe
18
Power2U said on May 21st, 2012
Enjoyable movement the whole way.
19
MikeWilkinson said on May 16th, 2013
Fun climb. Second time doing it. There is a paper wasp making a nest close to the anchors, so be careful if you want to clean this route.
20
Rx2Climb said on October 2nd, 2016
Tons of fun. Sustained route with a crazy fun and juggy campus start. Great movement and variety of holds (jugs, slopers, sidepulls, handjams!).
21
KhaoticKlimber said on April 30th, 2019
Bolt for the top right anchor is loose and hanger is a spinner as of today, so be wary. Otherwise, first pure campus start I've ever encountered. Fun, interesting moves the whole up and a few "thank god" holds. Let's up right when you need it.