Quicksilver

This route is located in the Muir Valley at The Arsenal

Bathtub Mary


2.
+0
0 votes

Sacriledge 5.10d (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Jared Hancock, Rob Copeland, James Case in 2005
Length: 60ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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At the top of the approach trail are several bolted lines on a heavily pocketed wall with large huecos mid-height. This is the leftmost line. Climb pockets to a sometimes damp ledge to reach better rock quality on the slightly overhanging face above.
Moves: Crimps or Edges
Descent: Chain anchor above roof
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.71 stars (93 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11a (96 votes)

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Comments

1
Caspian said on December 2nd, 2005
Yeah it seeps, but I think I still only used one wet hold. Avoiding the wet spots actually made it really fun. Makes you think a lot before you just start yarding on stuff. I might even say that the seemingly strategically place wet spots make it a better route...but I haven't done it when it was dry. Great route.
2
Anonymous said on December 7th, 2005
i thought it was a bit scary going through the wet section - the traversing would make for a pendulous fall - a bit contrived, but really fun once you get through the bottom silliness.
3
J-Rock said on December 7th, 2005
Why traverse when you can go straight up and still avoid the wet section?
4
said on January 2nd, 2007
At the balancy section after the mantle, there are chalked up holds over left. Any beta for going straight up instead of right after the mantle.
5
anticlmber said on December 24th, 2007
nice description ray. reminds me of some of john's route descriptions. tip of the hat to you sir.
6
SCIN said on December 24th, 2007
I wish I could take credit for that trickery Anti. That's Jared's work.
7
Anonymous said on December 26th, 2007
well then, wag of the finger.
8
SCIN said on December 26th, 2007
You are so sweet. That's what I love about you JR.
9
pawilkes said on February 5th, 2008
the bolt count on this is 8, not 7. wrong here and in the guidebook
10
dbarless said on March 4th, 2008
great route, but seriously, what part of this is 11a??!?!?
11
anticlmber said on March 26th, 2008
i thought this was just as hard as bathmary but better.
12
dustonian said on April 29th, 2010
This is a fun climb but would really benefit from the anchors being about 5' higher.
13
tambo2 said on October 4th, 2011
This route sure is hard for the shorties out there, especially if you can't reach the little pocket above the slabby section.
14
Willy said on March 19th, 2012
Definitely harder than bathtub next door. More sustained and the mantle is a harder crux than the crimpy section on bathtub
15
DrRockso said on March 31st, 2014
Don't miss the mega jug hidden on the right side right before the anchors.
16
Anonymous said on September 5th, 2016
large tree overhanging the climb just to the left. It needs to be taken down. Just a heads up.
17
KhaoticKlimber said on June 12th, 2019
Wanna add some extra spice to this line? After the dirty ledge, try sticking a dyno from the two-handed jug on the left to the holds just below the hueco instead of doing the typical techy sequence to the right. It took my friend a few tries, but she stuck it with style.
18
KhaoticKlimber said on June 12th, 2019
I agree that the anchors should be raised higher. As they are now, you can take the easy way out and clip the chains from below the mantle, but the route would be even better if you were forced to commit to the final mantle move. This way, it would warrant an 11a grade in my opinion, since that move is quite burly, moreso than anything on Bathtub Mary.