COVID-19 Climbing Closures: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - are closed. Please stay home and stay safe. See links above for more details about each climbing area.


This route is located in the Muir Valley at The Arsenal

Freakin' Deacon

0 votes

Reload 5.12c (Sport) *****

First Ascent: Brad Weaver, Eric Heuermann in 2006
Length: 70ft
Bolts: 7 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Begin by climbing through large ledges which lead to excellent face climbing with a topout that will make you feel like your crash pad should be underneath you.
Moves: Crimps or Edges
Descent: 2 bolt anchor above roof
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: Muir Valley
crimpy (1)
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Quality Consensus

4.73 stars (30 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12c (24 votes)

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Sorry, no pictures to be had. {want to add a photo?}


Anonymous said on December 2nd, 2005
Why is this a closed project if it has an FA?
J-Rock said on December 5th, 2005
Maybe the route has seen an FA, but perhaps there is still some cleaning left to do before it is open to the public. Otherwise there will probably be a bunch of whining climbers complaining about how they broke such and such a hold, or that some of the route was dirty, or there was some block that needed trundled, or there was a tree in the way, or the bolts were in the wrong place, or there weren't enough tickmarks, ad infinitum et absurdum.
Anonymous said on January 26th, 2006
Christ this is a lame as fuck climbing area... Who in there right mind has project lists and "official-project-tags." Move out west and go and make something of yourselves. If I here in more of this bullshit baby crap I will lose my mind. Oh yeah, as a route developer outside of the Red you guys can go and fuck yourselves the Red sucks in many ways but is also a good area for people from Indy, Cincy, Lexington, etc. to go to and establish, put up, climb and sandbag the shit out of themselves. So keep on keeping on and go and climbing your fucking Red River Gorge Rated 5.12 that surely west of the mississippi would be a 5.11
Anonymous said on January 27th, 2006
Christ you are a lame ass fuckwad... What route doesn't start as some form of a project? What there are no project routes out west? Stay out west and keep on keeping on your chipped holds, drilled pockets, and grid bolted routes. Bullshit baby crapper with a lost mind, go fuck yourself. You suck.
JR said on February 13th, 2007
Awsome route, maybe the best of its grade at Muir Valley. Not harder than Bullfighter.
chriss said on March 4th, 2007
Very nice line!
Andrew said on April 14th, 2007
Really really good. Super fun route
pigsteak said on November 26th, 2007
sweet line...nice Job Big E and Brad.
ray said on March 24th, 2008
Excellent line. I think Bullfigher is cooler though just because of the beginning dyno.
TVA said on March 25th, 2008
very pretty line
dustonian said on May 12th, 2010
great route, but what's the deal with slab-waddling at the finish? Really not worth the rope wear in my opinion. Would the FAs object to there being a second bolt at the lip of the steep section with some hardware?
chriss said on May 12th, 2010
An extra anchor, right before the crux of the route? Makes zero sense to me. If your worried about the rope wear skip the route or bail before the roof. Your talking about skipping some nice, unique moves, that in my opinion make the route fantastic. Stopping any earlier would makes it a standard RRG jug (crimp) haul (and much easier).
Andrew said on May 12th, 2010
I completely agree with Chriss. The top out is what makes this route great, and I don't remember any extra rope wear. If it weren't for the top out it would be another good, but forgettable route.
dustonian said on May 14th, 2010
Alright, consensus has spoken. I usually love routes that actually top out to a no-hands stance (like Demon Seed, or most trad routes), but this one is definitely a sheath-shredder. Oh well, sandstone is soft enough I guess and that top move is pretty fun.
Brentucky said on December 30th, 2011
I love this route, but damn I hate clipping that last bolt (or blowing it to be more precise). My feet hurt.
smitty said on October 18th, 2013
Pulled a big ticked "jug" off of the roof of this route last week. Other than that it is a great route. It was quite a surprise, would have been an onsight. Also, lowering from the slab anchor placement, the rope tends to get stuck in a V crack and can get stuck. Major sheath wear
whoneedsfeet said on October 18th, 2013
That damned rock keeps blowing my onsites too
jkpugel said on October 25th, 2013
Haven't been on the route but walked over to look at it and it looked like you might clip the bolt above the roof from that jug. Is there still a decent hold to clip from? The fall from there looked like it could be potentially painful.
Anonymous said on November 4th, 2013
Really fun power endurance route that is marred by a stupid slab mantle at the top. Maybe I'm just frustrated that I blew my onsight traversing back and forth trying to find holds that don't exist, but the top of this route left a bad taste in my mouth. Would have been a much better choice to put the anchors at the lip instead of over it, horrendous, rope shredding drag resuts from the current placement of the anchors.
tbwilsonky said on November 4th, 2013
mantles? dogs eating lunch? tick marks? WHY GOD WHY?!?!?!
Cocoapuffs1000 said on November 4th, 2013
If you don't like the mantle there are dozens of mid 12s that have nice predictable finishes, starting with bullfighter to the left. I liked it, and I suck at mantles.
Anonymous said on November 5th, 2013
I guarantee that if you didn't fall you would have loved the topout.