Spider Crux

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Washboard Wall

Barenjager


4.
+0
0 votes

Cordillera Rojo 5.11a (Sport) *

First Ascent: Barry Brolley, Keith Raker in 2006
Length: 115ft
Bolts: 12 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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A not so great adventure climb with lots of bad rock on the second pitch.Start immediately right of "Spider Crux" and left of "Barenjager". Follow 4 bolts to the ledge system, rest as long as your conscience will allow, and launch up the unrelenting and imposing headwall above. A 70 meter rope is not long enough to lower off, so it needs to either be done in 2 pitches (there is an intermediate anchor) or the climber will have to figure out how to set up a rappel.
Moves: Overhanging face
Descent: 2 bolt anchor
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

1.85 stars (13 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11b (8 votes)

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Comments

1
J-Rock said on January 25th, 2006
2 long slings are recommended for the traverse (and a change of underwear).
2
chriss said on July 9th, 2007
good climb for those that think muir's routes have to many bolts. Adventerous, the second pitch was about playing the which hold isn't going to break game.
3
pawilkes said on November 9th, 2008
an interesting route, kind of an adventure
4
Anonymous said on August 21st, 2009
Is the intermediate anchor on this route above a ledge or is it just a hanging belay off the bolts?
5
pawilkes said on August 21st, 2009
The anchors are on a ledge and are shared with "Heard it on NPR" which is totally worth doing if you're up there. From the anchors you go up ~20 feet and the traverse left ~20 feet, clipping a few bolts along the way. there is a sort of rest at the end of the traverse so you may want to go back and unclip most of the traverse bolts to cut down on drag. I didn't and thought my partner was short roping me through the crux.
6
bcombs said on August 21st, 2009
I think pawilkes meant ~20 foot traverse to the right. If you traverse to the left you will be in a chossy dead end. Definitely travers back and unclip the traverse bolts if you can. The drag is bad, even with long draws.
7
blakeleathers said on April 10th, 2010
11a bahahaha
8
dustonian said on June 28th, 2010
kind of strangely bolted and still a bit chossy up top. the huge traverse through the blackberry bush in the middle is truly mystifying... oh yeah, be careful lowering off from the top, very difficult to get back in to ledge system with the intermediate anchor. An accident waiting to happen IMO... Heard it on NPR is a much nicer route.
9
Dmack said on October 4th, 2011
would like to suggust to Rick that this route should be removed..dangerous groundfall potential for 4 bolts, on terrible rock
10
dustonian said on October 4th, 2011
the fact you can't get down easily with a 60 or even a 70 is reason enough....perhaps the only route with this distinction at Muir. Kind of amazed no one has been lowered off their rope on this one yet.
11
dnietosi said on June 1st, 2012
Awful second pitch. Not worth it!
12
Aksama said on July 18th, 2014
So bad. Also, holy hell 11a.
13
Rob Smith said on February 23rd, 2015
Worst route at the Red in my opinion. Dangerous and most likely only a matter of time until someone gets hurt on this (although i certainly hope not).
14
DrRockso said on April 11th, 2017
Worst bolt job in the Red. Should be rated 11D rope Drag even with slings. Why didn't you guys take the obvious line straight up?
15
Chiyram said on July 17th, 2017
Someone is going to get seriously injured or worse on this route in it's current state. Careful about ground fall potential on the first pitch and everyone has said it for the rest of the climb.
16
DrRockso said on June 1st, 2018
A direct version now eliminates the heinous rope drag and long traverse. Follow the 2 glue-ins just before entering into the traverse. Harder than 5.11a but about the same grade as the sandbagged original Cordillera "5.11a". Remains an adventure climb, best split into 2 pitches.
17
Chiyram said on June 1st, 2018
The route savior! Can you lower from the top with a 70 meter or do you still have to try and get back into the ledge?
18
jnolte said on June 6th, 2018
have to get back to ledge