Spinner

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Tectonic Wall and Johnny's Wall

Burning Bush


11.
+0
0 votes

Mancala 5.10b (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Jared Hancock, Rob Copeland, J.J., Karla Carandang in 2006
Length: 45ft
Bolts: 4 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Start on the boulder right of "Spinner". Pick a path up the juggy plates to an interesting bulge and a fierce finish.
Moves: Jugs
Descent: Ring Anchors
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

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3 stars (63 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10b (78 votes)

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Submitted by: gladhander
Date: May 6th, 2006

Comments

1
J-Rock said on February 7th, 2006
Tricky anchor clip. You can clip from the sidepull jug down and right from the anchors, but it is reachy and awkward. There is a good pocket up and left of it. Or better yet, keep going and clip from the jug above the anchors.
2
gladhander said on May 6th, 2006
Listen to J-Rock. Took a nice clean fall from the anchors b/c i didn't reach high right above the anchors. Short sweet climb.
3
Captain Bad Beta said on October 10th, 2006
Don't let the bulge scare you at the top. Huge holds but you have to commit to making the move. I went up planning to take J-Rock's advice and clip from the jug above the achors but the move looked too big for me (and I'm 6'-0") so i opted to clip from the pocket up and left. Great, fun route!
4
ray said on November 25th, 2006
Clipped off a bomber handjam out right.
5
512OW said on March 29th, 2007
Haha. I clipped off the same jam...
6
heacocis said on October 22nd, 2007
Great route to a tough and committing finish. If the grade is based on the most difficult move, I think 10b is right.
7
jlu said on November 19th, 2007
Nice moves on this route, I think the bolts could be in better locations though
8
Myke Dronez said on February 17th, 2008
Pump up the jam!
9
keegan540 said on June 18th, 2008
Harder than the other three tens on this wall. Fun ending.
10
jenbongo said on June 27th, 2008
I'm 5'5 and was able to clip one anchor from the sidepull jug (or both with the draws placed). I thought the moves were tough getting to the huge holds from the last bolt.
11
Josephine said on June 24th, 2009
the finish was awkward. i used the sidepull jug - that hand jam just hurt too much. i must have been doing it wrong! :-)
12
anticlmber said on September 29th, 2009
this route is one of my least favorite routes i've ever done(that says a lot) and the moves were okay. the finish just robs so much from an other wise decent route. 10a
13
Peppermint said on July 26th, 2010
I didn't really like the bolt placement, and the anchor clip is tricky, but other than that neat little line. Couple of no hands rests if you feel like playing around with it. Several different ways to complete it. Crux is definitely the bulge before the anchors, but its no issue if you commit.
14
nik said on May 14th, 2012
definitely the hardest of the 10s on this wall. i think 10b would be fair. the bulge and the finish are both pretty tricky (as others have said).