The Pessimist

This route is located in the Muir Valley at The Stadium

El Patron


23.
+0
0 votes

Cheetah 5.12a (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Bob Peterson, Matt Hoffman, Paul Coover in 2006
Length: 40ft
Bolts: 5 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This route ascends the streaks of orange and yellow rock through the speckled face of eyelid shaped huecos 30ft left of El Patron.
Moves: Slopers
Descent: Chain Anchors
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:
bouldery (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4 stars (32 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12a (33 votes)

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Submitted by: bbllaakke
Date: Oct 31st, 2019

Submitted by: AndrewSabula
Date: Nov 19th, 2012

Submitted by: ray
Date: Sep 8th, 2007

Submitted by: pcoover
Date: Mar 8th, 2006

Submitted by: pcoover
Date: Mar 8th, 2006

Submitted by: Caspian
Date: Mar 3rd, 2006

Submitted by: Caspian
Date: Mar 3rd, 2006

Comments

1
Caspian said on March 3rd, 2006
This route currently gets sun probably from 9am till 4pm. Will extend to the top if the upper section of the cliff ever drys.
2
chriss said on March 8th, 2006
Great route!! Powerful cruxes seperated by a rest. Solid for the grade.
3
JR said on March 17th, 2006
Nice route. It is a real shame you can use the crimps left of the bolts. You can take the route straight up but it is harder. So close to being a real classic.
4
Power2U said on March 20th, 2006
Stellar... you definitely nned to move out right at the last bolt for the classic killer movement. Kinda reminds me of Pockets of Reistance at the New.
5
ray said on July 22nd, 2007
One of the best 12a lines in the Red!
6
512OW said on August 26th, 2007
Very good route... though it felt unfulfilling to me. I suppose I'm just partial to long, forearm busting adventures....
7
der uber said on November 3rd, 2009
looks cool, climbs cool. must do if you like short and bouldery routes. on both cruxes it definitely helped to climb through them before clipping.
8
dustonian said on May 10th, 2010
bad ass boulder problem
9
aburgoon said on September 27th, 2010
You can avoid the long last move by clipping the chains off a figure four.
10
Wonder1900 said on May 14th, 2012
Either the bottom crux has gotten harder or we just couldn't figure out how to keep it at the grade, but this felt very, VERY stiff for 12a.
11
Willy said on November 19th, 2012
I agree with the previous comment this thing is hard! That sloper above second bolt is a whore to move off of
12
tyler.yarbrough said on November 11th, 2013
This thing is at least a letter grade harder than hippocrite, scar tissue, and wildfire (all similar style). Felt REALLY hard for 5.12a.
13
Cocoapuffs1000 said on November 11th, 2013
Still easier than Infectious, Stretcherous, Buff the Wood, Whippersnapper, which are bouldery 12b. Hippocrite, Scar Tissue and Wildfire, although short, are not very bouldersome. Also this is very conditions dependent (though this past weekend was probably as good as any to do it).
14
tyler.yarbrough said on November 11th, 2013
Good point, maybe getting on it in the morning as opposed to the afternoon would be better, since the sloper hasn't been baking in the sun all day? Either way, there are some badass moves on this line!
15
Anonymous said on September 26th, 2014
This line was rated 12c in the 2nd edition...then went to 12a in the 3rd...wtf!!??
16
Anonymous said on September 26th, 2014
Grade correction after the FA. 15/24 people think it is 12a. 11c if it is Kipp/Ray/Dustin/Troy's line.
17
ray said on September 26th, 2014
12c was a misprint in the guide. Sorry. 12a was the original grade.
18
bcircell said on October 27th, 2014
I think it is on-par with Infectious, Tissue Tiger, Abiyoyo. The three main reasons I think the 12a grade has stuck are 1)intertia 2) it's length (short) 3) the fact that Pessimist is 5 feet away and is balls harder.
19
Ti-Bum said on October 22nd, 2015
4 goes on that and still not linked it, but still a very nice line! Definitely a project for me!
20
tazunemono said on August 14th, 2016
Not a summer route, that sloper is sick. Movement on the lower half is awesome. Two V3-ish cruxes to a V4 off the sloper, but clipping the 5th bolt and moving past is the true crux since the clipping hold has broken off. Looks like it used to be bigger. Now it's at least a V5 move off a 3-finger half pad sort-of sloper to reach the last bolt. Probably a 12c.
21
Anonymous said on August 14th, 2016
lol you're doing it wrong
22
Anonymous said on August 15th, 2016
Hey Taz, not sure what you mean by two v3's before the sloper crux. You climb literally 15ft of 5.11a climbing to get to the sloper crux. You are way off on the description bud, and probably doing it wrong. Definitely 12a.
23
tazunemono said on August 15th, 2016
I got some beta from a friend today - you gotta "cheat-ah" left