Mancala

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Tectonic Wall and Johnny's Wall

Climbing with Crowbars


12.
+0
0 votes

Burning Bush 5.11a (Sport) ***

First Ascent: J.J., Rob Copeland, Jared Hancock in 2006
Length: 50ft
Bolts: 5 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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15 right of "Mancala" is another overhanging jughaul. Climb on up and crimp over a powerful bolted bulge below the anchors.
Moves: Plates
Descent: Cable anchor
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.13 stars (60 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11a (65 votes)

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Comments

1
One-Fall said on July 17th, 2006
Hard anchor clip.
2
DuppyC said on July 30th, 2006
very similiar to Mancala up to the finish, pretty tough last couple moves.
3
Power2U said on October 1st, 2006
Fun climbing on medium quality rock... should clean up over time. more like 10d than 11b though.
4
dbrayack said on March 27th, 2007
It was route #10 of the day, but it felt pretty sharp. Also, a little rough for 11a (once again, it was the end of a long day). Perfect 0.5-1 BD placement between the bolts too.
5
jlu said on November 19th, 2007
Super fun start... definitely agree that last move is tough on the fingers, especially when it's your 7th climb in the 30° cold
6
keegan540 said on June 13th, 2008
crimpy finish, holds are really positive, just don't pump out before you get there
7
rjackson said on August 10th, 2008
The beginning looks intimidating but is quite fun and positive. Used a #1 C4 halfway between the 1st and 2nd bolt. Easy climbing to a bolts worth of eleven at the top.
8
rjackson said on August 10th, 2008
The beginning looks intimidating but is quite fun and positive. Used a #1 C4 halfway between the 1st and 2nd bolt. Easy climbing to a bolts worth of eleven at the top.
9
Anonymous said on November 24th, 2008
Sent without any gear because I'm BOLD!!!!
10
512OW said on April 6th, 2009
No longer a mixed route. Seemed kinda silly to have one gear placement on a sport route anyway... especially considering how many people did it without the gear.
11
Anonymous said on May 27th, 2009
10c/d
12
anticlmber said on September 29th, 2009
not bad, 10a to a sit down with artichokes on a ledge and then a quick crimp = 10c/d
13
nik said on May 8th, 2012
pretty tough crux for an 11a. BUT, it's only 4-5 moves of difficult climbing (including anchor clip). if you have no endurance but boulder pretty strong this is the 11a for you!
14
Izzy said on June 22nd, 2012
Cool route, fun beginning but the end is pretty tough and I don't agree that those crimps are positive. People need to stop leaving 15 tick marks in 5 vertical feet of climbing, kind of silly. Agree on the hard anchor clip. Also, left a cleaning biner on the 2nd to last bolt, otherwise would've been a pain in the ass.
15
Annea said on September 27th, 2012
There's a half-decent knee bar under the bulge before the last few moves, for what it's worth.
16
krisbranin said on April 2nd, 2014
10c/d climbing to the last bolt .. 11b to the chains if you're short/new to the grade.