Mental Affair

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Tectonic Wall and Johnny's Wall

Grey Matter


17.
+0
0 votes

Brain Stem 5.7 (Mixed) *

First Ascent: J.J., Jane Maurer, Mark Ryan, Jenny Wagner in 2006
Length: 50ft
Bolts/Gear: 1/Small/medium gear (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Hike ~100' right of Johnny's Wall until you reach a short striking dihedral. Shoot up the dihedral then wander out the roof to a bolt on the slabby face above.
Moves: Slab
Descent: Cable anchor
Stays Dry:
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

1.9 stars (10 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.8 (9 votes)

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Submitted by: rjackson
Date: Jun 21st, 2009

Submitted by: rjackson
Date: Jun 21st, 2009

Comments

1
MartyV said on November 11th, 2006
At present (nov 06) too much moss, dirt, and mud to deserve 3 stars.
2
usmcmars said on June 9th, 2007
I followed it and I hated it. Moss, dirt, pieces breaking at the top. The ledge was awkward. Not a fun trad climb. We decided we'd call it "3 stars my arse".
3
rjackson said on May 18th, 2009
A tough start leads to a heady roof. No problem with pro, moss or dirt. Worthy of points.
4
pigsteak said on September 3rd, 2012
how do the cool kids say it nowadays..."meh"?
5
ted said on August 6th, 2014
not 5.7...not worth it
6
Smiles said on September 10th, 2019
Quite a hard start for the grade... it gets easier the higher you go. The OK protection also improves with height. Given the difficulty of the first 10 feet I expected the roof to be harder but was disappointed.