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Forearm Follies (to first set of chains)

This route is located in the Gray's Branch Region at Military Wall

 Another Doug Reed Route

20.
+4
4 votes

Forearm Follies (to 2nd set of chains) 5.12b (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Porter Jarrard, Tim Toula in 1990
Length: 100ft
Bolts: 0 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This climb is located around the buttress left of Henry Kissinger's Glasses.
Moves: Pockets
Stays Dry:
Owner: NFS
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

4.48 stars (44 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12a (37 votes)

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15 comments {add your own comments}
1
Power2U said on July 3rd, 2003
This thing has to be one of the best pure endurance routes at the red. 100 feet of great climbing on very different, highly featured rock. Another overlooked gem.
2
Astroman said on March 5th, 2004
Newly rebolted (thanks CM).
3
ashtray said on November 21st, 2007
5 stars. took me a while to do this one but it finally went down. good route porter, and good rebolting CM. i pulled off some flakes and scrubbed off some of the dirt and choss, with some more sends I think this be awesome. rock is not the best, but hey what are you gonna do? he had to bolt it as it was there.
4
chriss said on March 17th, 2008
Really fun endurance climb. After the first 4 bolts, take your time and relax on jug after jug after jug all the way to the tope of the cliff.
5
pawilkes said on May 20th, 2009
the redundant porter hanger on this is kind of nice to see, it's nice that you don't have to use it.
6
ray said on October 14th, 2009
Not sure why the first set of chains is there. Much cooler going to the 2nd set.
7
dustonian said on October 21st, 2009
Awesome route!! Second "pitch" feels almost easier than the first. Be careful lowering off with a 60m... it is super close so tie a knot in the end of the rope!
8
climb2core said on March 7th, 2011
This route was very fun and kicked my enduro lacking butt!!! It was committing between bolts although all air... The first 4 bolts were harder than what I expected. Next time I get on it I am going to get a pic of that old Porter hanger :)
9
Chuckdott said on August 30th, 2011
I'm really happy to have found this route now that Roadside is closed. Very similar to Return of Chris Schneider, Pine, and Way Up Yonder. I miss those routes! Please open up Roadside again soon!
10
der uber said on May 9th, 2012
This route is a nice contrast to the shorter, more popular 12s around the corner. Long, pumpy, varied.
11
vouldering said on October 6th, 2012
Love this route... I felt like back in karate Dojang and punching away and it keeps coming back. I felt like a happy masochist... So fun.
12
Cromper said on June 25th, 2013
Amazing climb! Best enduro route at the grade.
13
Anonymous said on March 8th, 2018
Redpointed shitty pointless alternate extension to the left with wedge bolts yesterday. What fool bolted this and why the hell did you cut out the living tree that has survived for years perched in a precarious harsh position only to be killed by a moron who just has to add 7 bolts to the upper head wall?!
14
Anonymous said on March 9th, 2018
Lol who bolted this shit? Bad enough to bolt a new route down here let alone bolt a shitty variation of a classic route.
15
Anonymous said on August 12th, 2018
Not a variation but an entire new route was bolted to the left of this. The work was poorly done with inappropriate hardware along with being completely illegal and a potential threat to our access here so FYI to whoever did this your shit has been chopped