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Paradise Regained

This route is located in the Southern Region at Purgatory

The Gimp


17.
+1
1 votes

Hellraiser 5.12c (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Kenny Barker in 2005
Length: 65ft
Bolts: 7 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Walk right from Paradise Lost past a large ampitheater. This is the next sport line and follows a distinct line of pockets through grey rock. Climb through fragile holds a few feet to reach a good hold. Reach hard through the crux then flow to the anchors on large holds.
Moves: Bouldery or Technical
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

4.59 stars (34 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12c (26 votes)

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Submitted by: carlos99992
Date: Mar 11th, 2012

Submitted by: carlos99992
Date: Mar 11th, 2012

Submitted by: carlos99992
Date: Mar 11th, 2012

Comments

1
allah said on March 21st, 2006
I did this route last fall, when Lee of Lexington told me to go ahead and send it since he was going to be gone for 8 months on an internship. He did a fantastic job bolting this line, it just needs a little cleaning down low. It is probably around 12a if you are tall with a reach and 12b/c if you are short have fun on this route everyone
2
SCIN said on March 21st, 2006
This line rocks. The boulder problem is cool as hell and the rest of it reminds me of an easier version of Hippocrite.
3
Power2U said on April 3rd, 2006
12b regardless of height, the boulder problem is at least v4, maybe v5? Maybe we should say 12d if you are weak 12a if you are strong ;)
4
ninesixfour said on April 7th, 2006
Good route Lee and allah. 12b seems about right.
5
SCIN said on April 7th, 2006
Hey Kenny, why don't you make up a name for this thing? It's too cool to not have one.
6
allah said on April 7th, 2006
How bout you go ahead and name it Ray, I have only named one route that i hvae drilled and that is lucifer, everything else at the crag my friends have named so do the honors, i insist
7
SCIN said on April 7th, 2006
Cool man. I took care of it, thanks. I stayed with the theme.
8
allah said on April 8th, 2006
Nice I like
9
Power2U said on April 12th, 2006
Good name... this thing is sure to do its namesake with a lot of strong clmibers.
10
Andrew said on April 21st, 2006
Boulder problem is really hard and I am really tall. Some super strong shorter climbers I know have been getting their butt handed to them on the crux. 12c at least.
11
Andrew said on April 30th, 2006
I have to retract my last statement. I was informed by some tall lanky bastard, that lives in a trailer, that I did the crux wrong. So 12d if your short, 12a if your tall, 14b if your me.
12
Andrew said on July 12th, 2006
Can someone please change the grade of this to at least 12c, so that my score card looks better. hehe
13
allah said on July 18th, 2006
cont you mean casual 11c andrew hahaha
14
Power2U said on October 31st, 2006
Rock quality is improving and the movement on this thing is great. Rad, hard boulder problem with a great looking "strip" of pockets on the wall. The grade is tough... it depends totall on the boulder problem grade.....v5 = 12b/c??????
15
rdpoints said on May 11th, 2007
Really fun route! Hard to get a handle on the grade.......I'd have to say solid 12c IMHO.
16
Anonymous said on November 13th, 2007
Solid 12c, especially after broken hold on crux section. Amazing movement
17
Anonymous said on March 5th, 2008
This is a badass route, but for the love of god change that grade 12c/d withoutadoubt
18
italianwrestler125 said on March 9th, 2009
really cool..crux sequence is stellar
19
SCIN said on December 31st, 2009
Bumped up to 5.12c
20
allah said on December 31st, 2009
One leaves the red and the grades are being thrown around like M&M's on christmas morn. Your gonna give everyone in the red a big head ray if you start UPGRADING! all for the down grades though :)
21
SCIN said on January 3rd, 2010
The yin needed some yang.
22
THB said on April 19th, 2010
got on this today for the first time... what an awesome climb! This route climbs really well, and it looks rad, too...
23
Anonymous said on October 29th, 2013
heard this route has a bad bolt on it. take a 9/16" wrench and try to retighten it if you get on this anytime soon.
24
Raiden said on April 18th, 2016
There is a glue-in bolt at the 3rd (crux) bolt; the old one looks awful. Thanks for the work.
25
Anonymous said on May 1st, 2016
Broke a hold between the second and third bolt just below the crux. Left the hold on a rock at the base of the route. The route did not change after the fact. It was once a jug and now is just a different shaped jug.
26
Anonymous said on May 2nd, 2016
Different shaped jugs make the world go round.
27
Anonymous said on May 2nd, 2016
cool story bro
28
Anonymous said on May 2nd, 2016
bro, the story was being read to you, last night, by your mother and your lips were firmly squeezing a hairy jug
29
Anonymous said on May 2nd, 2016
wtf
30
Anonymous said on May 2nd, 2016
bro
31
eduard said on November 12th, 2017
The boulder problem is so good!
32
Anonymous said on November 29th, 2019
I have to temper the psych about this route. Don't do it unless you're WAY stronger than 12c. The boulder problem is wildly hard. The holds are crazy slopey, the move is insanely reachy, and the beta involves a specific heel toe cam that's hard to find. It's...not fun. I've seen so many strong people have to lower off or skip the boulder. Just go do a different 12c.
33
Rx2Climb said on November 29th, 2019
^^^Agree. Also the top is gross and sandy.
34
Raiden said on December 8th, 2019
I have to stoke the psych about this route. Do it no matter how strong you are. The boulder problem is super cool. The holds are crazy slopey, the move is insanely awesome, and there are many different betas. It’s...so fun. I’ve seen so many people have so much fun on this route. Just do this 12c. Also the top is not sandy at all.
35
Anonymous said on December 8th, 2019
Raiden I agree with you. Last two commenters are bitches. This route truly kicks ass.
36
Anonymous said on December 9th, 2019
This route is amazing just cause your to weak to pull the boulder doesn’t take away from the quality of a line, so is God’s own stone a bad route because it has a hard move, of course not. Golden ticket isn’t classic cause I can’t do the boulder. Also what toe hook jam are you talking about, grab the sloper sack up and jump. Finally if it’s sandy brush it off, it’s most likely from runoff. Uh also if it’s your first time here, the rock it is SANDstone . If ya want a soft 12c go do malice, on second thought it’s probably to hard anyways. Just cause you did mirage and mosaic doesn’t mean you climb 12c. And since this is red river climbing send in the trolls and flame on bitches. Jack Sparrow
37
Rx2Climb said on December 9th, 2019
lol. Agree to to disagree. If you like this route, more power to you, but I did not enjoy it.
38
Anonymous said on December 10th, 2019
That's just because you're weak af bro... don't be so opinionated
39
Anonymous said on December 10th, 2019
Imagine being someone who values others based on how strong they are.
40
Anonymous said on December 10th, 2019
Sounds like something that someone weak AF would say.
41
Cocoapuffs1000 said on December 10th, 2019
People aren't talking shit because they are weak. It's their lack of humility. It's OK to not like particular climbs, but to complain that the route sucks and NO ONE should climb it because there is a move you can't do is rude and arrogant. Also to the original complainer: you are in for a rude awakening if you try to climb 12c at MANY places outside of the Red.
42
Anonymous said on December 10th, 2019
Agreed, 12b and c have to be some of the most consistently soft and overfluffed grades in the Red... people get on a remotely accurate one and start crying haha
43
Anonymous said on December 10th, 2019
All you super strong mega tough guys should get together in a giant circle jerk and talk together forever and ever about how soft the Red is, splooging all over each other as you do. That's basically what this thread has turned into.
44
Anonymous said on December 10th, 2019
oh fuck yeah. So soft. Fucking hard as a rock to all this softness.