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Collision Damage

This route is located in the Southern Region at Bronaugh Wall

Belly of the Beast


5.
+0
0 votes

Crumblies 5.12a (Sport) ***

First Ascent: John Bronaugh in 2004
Length: 55ft
Bolts: 7 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Step about 5 feet right from the previous line to locate this adventure. Shoot for a high pinch to start then move up to a 50 pound flake waiting to blow. Tread lightly around the flake then play continue up the right angling face on holds which magically disappear when you're done or while you are using them.
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Stays dry
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.08 stars (39 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12a (29 votes)

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Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Sep 10th, 2020

Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Sep 10th, 2020

Submitted by: SCIN
Date: Apr 10th, 2006

Comments

1
ray said on April 3rd, 2006
If you are into climbs that crumble as you move up them then this is the route for you. Make sure your belayer stays far away. There aren't many lines in the Red that I don't like but damn if this ain't one of them. I think this was a cruel joke of John's.
2
Andrew said on April 3rd, 2006
Is as good as shaggy? That route was one of John's best.
3
SCIN said on April 4th, 2006
This may very well be a contendor for Shaggy.
4
Andrew said on April 4th, 2006
Nothing will ever come close to being as visionary of a line as shaggy. Shut your mouth ray, I will not tolerate such blasphemy.
5
Ascentionist said on April 4th, 2006
Seems like a lot of John's jokes were cruel, but playful.
6
Andrew said on April 4th, 2006
The thing with John was that he had x-ray vision. He could see what the rock looked like underneath the crappy rock. In about 1 million years those routes will be the best in the world, or after about 10 people climb them.
7
Power2U said on April 6th, 2006
Did this thing today and it did have good moves, and Ray must have kicked off the crumblies cause it wasn't too bad. Of course my go was after JP's and he kicked off a fewq holds on his go. I of course helped clean it up further, so it is improving, it couldn'g get worse. The good news is I sent it and don't ever have to get on it again ;)
8
SCIN said on April 6th, 2006
Dude, it was crazy. I about killed Jeremiah with a rock then he about killed my dog with a rock. And you know I'm no rock snob either. I guess we did our community service and cleaned it up. Every single hold I grabbed was crumbling. It became a game of finding the least fragile hold to grab. I think you climbed a different line.
9
JR said on July 18th, 2007
I am training to onsight Sand at Roadside. Can you guys tell me if this route is a good representation of what I am going to be up against? I would appreciate any help that you could give me so I can achieve my personal goals. Thank you in advance because I am sure you will give me insight.
10
chriss said on July 18th, 2007
Excellent training for sand, and even better for the second pitch of double stuff. Crunblies is def more chossy than sand, so you will be in good shape. Good luck!
11
ray said on May 5th, 2008
Sorry Power2U. It's still a crumbly pile. And I thought *I* had low standards.
12
craig.smith1 said on May 22nd, 2014
This route is better than the name implies. I was curious how bad a 1 star route named Crumblies could be. Apparently is has cleaned up some. I thought it was fine.
13
Dyercurt said on October 9th, 2015
Actually a surprisingly good route for a one star route named crumblies.
14
pawilkes said on October 9th, 2015
The jugs are so big on this thing that I was constantly waiting for them to explode but nothing broke (and I'm not a lightweight). Surprisingly OK route, worthy of at least a couple stars
15
Nick said on November 6th, 2016
Deserves a better name than crumblies so people will actually get on it. Fun route!
16
StepLEFTskyline said on April 16th, 2017
Fun climb needs a bit more traffic but most everything has cleaned up. Less chossy then tuna town.
17
Ryanwsu4 said on April 30th, 2018
I had heard by now this thing was cleaned up, broke off a gold ball size foot hold today. Guess not. Climb was meh.
18
whoneedsfeet said on August 1st, 2018
really fun climb. has defiantly cleaned up a lot and is earning some stars.
19
Raiden said on August 31st, 2020
At first I thought whoneedsfeet misspelled "definitely" but then I realized he's a genius since this route has DEFIANTLY opposed its crumbly name and is now a decent route.
20
Anonymous said on September 10th, 2020
Really great climb, very manageable for the grade, and lived up to its name. Watched a guy rip a good hold off, but it wasn't something I used at all, more of a sucker hold and probably is easier now. Nothing broke or crumbled on me. With beta this felt very light for a 12a. 11+? in its current state. Rap rings currently, so plan something besides lowering.
21
Anonymous said on September 10th, 2020
You can lower through rap rings just don't top rope on them - as is the case for all fixed gear.
22
Anonymous said on September 10th, 2020
Oh god please just kill me now here we go again fuck
23
Anonymous said on September 10th, 2020
You CAN lower through rapp rings but I promise you'll only ever do it once.
24
Anonymous said on September 11th, 2020
Meh, a little case of the twisties never hurt anyone.
25
Anonymous said on September 11th, 2020
I top rope through rap rings all the time and never had my rope twisted?
26
Anonymous said on September 11th, 2020
Never experienced a twisted rope from lowering on rap rings after countless occasions. Kinda odd to hear of it happening.
27
Anonymous said on September 11th, 2020
There are only 853,543,048,528 zillion threads on MP, RRC and FB about rap anchors, etc. To get your drama fix, please google and read some of those instead of spamming the online guidebook any more. #getoffmylawn
28
Anonymous said on September 12th, 2020
If the anchors are only hangers + rap rings (which you see every now and then) and they are at least a couple feet apart (which they usually are), you may have yourself a twist situation. It's not so much the rap rings part of the equation; the same thing can happen with quicklinks, biners, or drop-ins. This is part of the reason why developers (kindly) often add chain to the anchor hangers.
29
Anonymous said on September 12th, 2020
This line has spaced rapp rings. Definitely deserving of some chains for sure. Ill bring some out next time im there.
30
J-Ru said on September 20th, 2020
Andrew's comment above about Johnny's x-ray vision is spot-on. Most, if not all, of the crumblies are gone and what was underneath is solid. The movement is great and the climbing is fun. With the choss gone it is probably soft at 5.12a.
31
Llamajockey said on November 9th, 2020
Nothing wrong with this route.
32
climb2core said on November 11th, 2020
It’s good, probably more 11d. Wish I would have read the comments and brought chain and mussys. Instead I’ll just add to the list stating rap rings only at anchors. If I’m in the PMRP again this week I’ll put some at the base fit it.