Indecision

This route is located in the Muir Valley at The Stadium

Walk the Line


7.
+0
0 votes

Psycho Billy Cadillac 5.10d (Mixed) **

First Ascent: J.J., Jared Hancock in 2006
Length: 95ft
Bolts/Gear: 6/Small to medium gear (report bad bolts/anchors)

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If you just climbed Indecision then leave it at that and go home with a smile. Otherwise climb this line fifteen feet to the right. Jug up steep rock past two bolts and a tricky roof move. Step right then continue to the top with some protected face and crack climbing.
Moves: Varied terrain
Descent: Cable anchor above ledge
Stays Dry:
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

2.29 stars (7 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10d (7 votes)

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Comments

1
pawilkes said on September 14th, 2008
this route only has two bolts, the two that get you up to the roof. the top is pretty easy, #2 & 3's are useful. not really worth doing.
2
ahab said on May 11th, 2009
wilkes, it sounds like you climbed through the first 2 bolts of this line and finished on "Indecision". Once you pull the roof, step right and there will be 3 more bolts directly above you. after those there's a crack section, then another bolt then anchors. this thing may be unclimbable once all the choss in the opening moves breaks off.
3
pawilkes said on May 12th, 2009
that would explain alot. my partner had one hell of a time pulling the lip. i moved left a little bit but it seemed the natural line. i'll have to take a look the next time i'm out there.
4
Brentucky said on May 12th, 2009
take a look or climb again? hopefully not climb again! this route would be "okay" except for that clipping jug beneath the 2nd bolt is a dangerous time bomb. if you read this and must climb this route, i'd stick clip the 2nd bolt even though it's way up there. when that hold breaks this thing will be WAY harder and thus totally dumb b/c after the roof is about 5.8 or so to the top. good view up there though.
5
Jeff said on February 19th, 2012
No thanks. Eh Russ?
6
pigsteak said on February 19th, 2012
if you took brentucky's advice and stick clipped the second bolt.....all would be fine;)
7
rjackson said on February 19th, 2012
We red tagged the route. If we would have had a 20 ft stick clip, all would NOT be fine...
8
Brentucky said on February 19th, 2012
Piggie, if you look more closely, you would see that brentucky wussed out and TR'd it. I'm sure it was because I thought it looked dangerous rather than the fact that I was a scared little weenie baby. :-)
9
DrRockso said on April 2nd, 2017
Pulling the roof is still choss, you can do a big move to avoid using the really choss jug. Finished on indecision, will try the bolted version, which looked fun, if I climb it again.