COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.
Okay. . .this route is dumb. However, the AMAZING view from the top makes it worth it.
Route gets negative 8 stars, the view gets like 50,003,527,683 stars. :-)
There are two reasons to get on this climb: (1) it's a fucking blast and (2) the view is spectacular and a great place to eat lunch. Go for the second anchors, it's a little frightening.
It's wierd... you climb 5.9 to a ledge, go for a walk to another 5.9, and then climb 5.9 to the top. Anyways, it's a climb. Lots of snakes, lizards, and turtles at the bottom. I haven't ever scene anyone else at this wall.... very quiet.
2nd set of anchors is almost directly above first set, and slightly left. There are also glue-in's sortof in the center of the top block. Also a bolt on the back side of the summit block...it is possible to traverse left on the ledge all the way around to the back side to see this solitary bolt...may be easier or harder to get up this way than the direct version. I didn't do the direct version.
Just did this route yesterday....hmmm well the most exposed I have ever been in the Red. Good climbing! Bees were numerous. No snakes. Lots of Salamanders. What a view! I chickened out going for the second set of anchors...wow I felt naked up there. Rope Drag is horrendous. Man what a route...I think it may be a little taller than 80 feet. OH! third bolt hanger was there...and looked quite new. ;)
Great climb except when an enraged wasp decided to go kamakaze on me after the first pitch; good thing I was safely standing on the ledge. However, If you're looking for 5.9+, it's well worth a battle with demon insects.
Rope drag is not a problem. Hang a sling on the bolt before the easy walk/traverse. This is something that some trad climber taught me. Silly tradys and their thinking man’s climbing.
I wouldn't recommend it for the novice leader. If you aren't comfortable with the exposure and blow the first clip of the second half, it could be very ugly. Fun climbing up there and a great view from the top.
What a great view and climb! Not to many bees over last weekend but enough flys to drive you mad. Not a bad hike to get to the climb but a sign at the begining of the trail would be nice.
The entire second half of the climb had crappy bolts. Some were bolted on sideways so it would crank your biner sideways and snap it between the nut and the hangar and then both anchor bolts were loose. I'm not complaining because I am a gumby that doesn't know how to fix any of this, but It was kinda freakin me out climbing to the top and each new bolt offered little in the way of protection. Awesome climb if the bolts were cool though
this was an interesting route. i had no problem with lizards and snakes, it was damned ladybugs, thousands of them. that may have tainted my view of it, because i was really trying to finish it, to get away from them. but most of the bolts were loose, or shaky. maybe R. but good moves, and a really exposed and heartpounding finish. if not for the rope drag this would be classic and very recomendable.
wow...so much to say. i think it's sandbagged. struggled a bit at the left arete traverse thing on the first pitch. it might have been my mind or the cold, but i thought the top out was harder than a 5.9. 1st bolt was a spinner. both anchors are loose. already reported to team suck. a lot of the rock on the second pitch is hollow. in short, it's everything i love and hate about outdoor climbing
long sling on the first bolt above the ledge helped with rope drag. top bolt and 2 sets of anchors were a little scary, but the view from the top was worth it; the rap rings on the top look solid, but I would never trust any webbing attached to them even though it looked new
Always enjoyed this climb but never topped out. Anyone know if one can rap the whole way with a 60m rope, and if there are fixed anchors or trees to sling?
New anchor and a few bolts. SS glue in bolts. DO NOT LOWER THRUE BOLTS. Leave a biners if you must bail. I will be back in a few weeks to remove old studs, unless someone wants to before I get their. You will need a hacksaw or grinder.
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Route details are copyright Ray Ellington, John Bronaugh, and other Red River Gorge climbers. Climbing is an inherently dangerous sport. The information in this guidebook is subject to error and should supplement never replace common sense and caution, competent guidance and instruction, and actually being outside. One should be especially cautious on matters of route length, descent type, and number of bolts (especially since such things do change occasionally).
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